My article in Wine Enthusiast magazine

My article on pairing wines with snack foods, which is featured on Wine Enthusiast's website, has been picked up by their print edition. Look for it on page 14 of the November 15, 2006, issue of Wine Enthusiast magazine.

I'm also doing a few other articles for Wine Enthusiast's website, so I'll keep you posted on when they are up on the site.

NV Cockburn Fine Ruby Port

Ahhhh...the fall weather this past weekend really put me in the mood for Port (and to think, this is a wine that I just discovered in the past year...before that I wasn't really a fan. Guess I just hadn't tried the right ones.)

My preference leans towards ruby or late bottled vintage (LBV). Don't get me wrong, I do enjoy the nuttiness and caramel notes in tawny, and I won't turn down a glass of vintage port if someone else is buying, but I really like the bright berry flavors that are so apparent in ruby and (often) LBV.

We opened up a bottle of NV Cockburn Fine Ruby Port, and at $10.99 at Total Wine, it's a steal. Best served at least lightly chilled, it had good raspberry flavors with a bit of maple syrup, and finished very smoothly (chilling it takes away that alcohol burn--it is, after all, fortified wine, so the ABV is 20%). We also tried it with a few pieces of good quality dark chocolate.

A perfect way to spend an evening.

Review of Coastal Flats

I went to Coastal Flats in Fairfax for dinner on Wednesday evening. It's been in the East Market shopping center for a few years, and we walked past it a bunch of time, but never tried it until the other night. (The exterior, with its white and yellow, looks very beachy, it even looks more inviting in the summertime when everyone is hanging out on the patio with some drinks...) We made reservations a few weeks back, so when we arrived we only had to wait five minutes or so for a table (I would definitely recommend doing this, as the wait, even on a Wednesday evening, looked really long.)

The interior has lots of dark wood, along with small, Ikea-type track lighting on wires, and cool sculptures of schools of fish swimming near the ceiling. The noise level is pretty loud, but it wasn't annoyingly so. One thing we really liked was the fact that all seating seems to be booths--no banquettes smashed closely next to one another (I never like feeling like I'm having dinner with the diners on either side of me, and if seating is banquette-style, I always try to snag an end table.)

The drinks and menu are inspired by "1950's Coastal Florida," according to the restaurant's website (that is also apparent from the large mural on one wall), and the drink and food menu reflect this. My husband enjoyed a CF Mojito, and it was really well done, with just the right combination of mint, lime, rum, sugar and soda. It was almost as good as the ones we make at home. I went with a glass of Oyster Bay Sauvignon Blanc--very nice, crisp and herby, with some lime notes. However, I wished the wine list, especially those selections by the glass, had been a bit more extensive. One of my big pet peeves when it comes to some restaurant wine lists is a glut of Chardonnays on the list, often made in the same style. I can see if restaurants want to include, say, an oaky Napa or Australian Chardonnay, an unoaked New Zealand, and a French Chablis, but to put several similar CA Chardonnays on the list is a bit much, especially for those of us who aren't a fan of oaky whites. But my wine choice was delicious.

The menu has some interesting choices, but it's not that extensive when it comes to seafood. For a restaurant inspired by the Florida coast, we thought there could have been at least a few more seafood dishes included. For those diners who don't like seafood, there are a few chicken, steak and rib dishes.

We started with a mixed green salad with grape tomatoes, sun dried cranberries, garlic croutons and champagne vinaigrette, which was lovely. My only wish would be to include bleu or goat cheese by default, instead of charging $1 for it. We thought the salad was screaming for bleu cheese, so we up charged.

My entree was sauteed shrimp with creamy grit cakes, which also had bits of smoked ham, roasted corn, asparagus, peppers and onions, all in a cajun cream sauce. It was low country seafood at its best. The sauce was smoky, rich and creamy, the grits were formed into triangular cakes and then deep fried, and the shrimp was perfectly cooked. It's not the typical entree I select when dining out, but it was a winner.

My husband opted for the Hong Kong style sea bass (clearly not EVERYTHING on the menu is inspired by 1950's Florida...), steamed over bok choy in a soy sherry broth, with sticky rice and topped with thin slices of crispy fried ginger. Steaming in broth is a preparation that is perfect for fleshy sea bass, and this was melt in your mouth fish.

We split a piece of key lime pie for dessert--creamy, limy and topped with graham cracker crumbs--a great choice that wasn't too filling. Our service was attentive, although seemed a bit rushed towards the end (when we saw the wait at the bar and in the lobby we understood why.)

If you haven't already tried Coastal Flats (and there is another location in Tysons), it's definitely worth a trip.

Moules et vin

I went to Cafe Deluxe for dinner last night--I've always enjoyed their food and casual atmosphere. Had one of my favorite dishes: mussels steamed in white wine, butter and herbs, and frites.

What to drink with steamed shellfish like mussels and clams? Cafe Deluxe's wine list is a bit limiting, but you can't go wrong with one of the Sauvignon Blancs, which will bring out the herby flavor in the broth.

When we were in Nice a few years ago, we enjoyed Moules Frites (mussels with thin French fries) several times, as that is basically the area's signature dish. And most of the locals drank dry rose with it, which also paired very nicely.

A third choice is Muscadet. A light white from the Loire Valley, it's pretty much made to go with the shellfish so popular in the area. With good acidity, some lemon or apple notes, and a bit of a mineral finish, it's a smart choice. "Sur lie" on the label means it was aged for a bit on the lees, the dead yeast cells that are leftover after fermentation, which can add body and complexity.

A brief Sherry primer

With all of the buzz about Spanish wines (especially those from the Priorat region--and if you haven't tried those, a good producer to start with is Onyx. It's sold at area Total Wine stores, and also appears on CityZen's menu), here is some basic information about Sherry. Ofter misunderstood, or seen as only a cooking wine, Sherry styles run the gamut from very light and dry, to heavy and sweet, with other styles in between. Experiment with a few bottles and some Spanish tapas (for a great cookbook, check out Jose Andres "Tapas: A Taste of Spain in America"), or head to one of Andres' famed DC area tapas restaurants, Jaleo.

Sherry: The Basics

• Produced in SW Spain (Andalusia) in 3 towns: Jerez de la Frontera, Puerto de Santa Maria and Sanlucar de Barrameda
• Made with the Palomino and/or Pedro Ximénez grapes
• Fortified wine—neutral grape brandy is added after fermentation. (Different than port, where brandy is added during fermentation.)
• Top producers: Gonzalez Byass, Croft, Pedro Domecq, Harvey’s, Sandelman, Osborne

Types of Sherry:

Fino: Light, dry
Manzanilla: Dry to medium-dry, (fans of Manzanilla claim the salt air of Sanlucar, where it's made, influences the flavor)
Amontillado: Dry to medium-dry
Oloroso: Dry to medium-dry, dark, full-bodied
Palo cortado: Dark, superior grade
Pedro Ximénez: Dark, sweet
Cream: Sweet

Jay-Z finds a new Champagne to endorse

After dissing Roederer's Cristal a few months ago, claiming the owner is a racist, he has now endorsed a small, little known Champagne house. Armand de Brignac, described by the importer as an "ultra-luxury product," is featured in Jay-Z's new video.

It does have the bling factor going for it--it's in a gold-plated bottle with a pewter label in the shape of an ace of spades, and it's also referred to as "Ace." So don't be surprised if that term pops up in more and more rap songs in the near future...

I haven't tried this Champagne--it had only been available in France, but now it's being imported to the U.S. (no doubt in part because of the publicity that Jay-Z is giving to it...) But the packaging, at least, looks gorgeous (definitely one of those bottles you save after you open it and display on a home bar.)

Glass wine "corks"

I'm just starting to hear and read more and more about glass wine closures made by Alcoa. They can be recycled, and, more importantly, they stop oxidation and prevent cork taint.

Whitehall Lane in Napa has started to use them for their Reserve Cabernet, and I have also heard of other wineries following suit.

We'll see if they become more popular than synthetic corks and/or screw caps. They certainly look attractive.

http://www.jobwerx.com/news/aa_biz-id=948151_541.html

More South African wines to try

I just finished my article on South African wines, which will appear in the Winter, 2007, edition of Pennsylvania's Wine Spirits Quarterly. Here are the reviews for the wines I tried for the article, along with the retail price in PA:

2004 Pecan Stream Chenin Blanc Stellenbosch ($10.99): This light-bodied white has a floral nose, along with crisp apples on the palate. Try it with pasta or chicken with cream sauce, or with soft cheeses and a fruit tray.

2004 Fairview Sauvignon Blanc ($11.49): A somewhat herbaceous aroma gives way to flavors of lime zest and gooseberry, along with good acidity and a mineral finish. Pair with a mixed greens salad with goat cheese and a light vinaigrette.

2004 Robertson Winery Pinotage ($9.99): Red berries are apparent on the nose, along with flavors of blackberry, smoke and a hint of nail polish. Goes well with beef, lamb and game dishes.

2003 Kanonkop Kadette ($13.99): This blend of Pinotage, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot (in roughly equal amounts) has a smoky, berry nose, and notes of rubber tires and blackberry on the palate. Try it with smoked meats or cheeses.

2002 Bilton Merlot ($20.99): A typical jammy Merlot aroma, with sour cherries and plums on the palate, along with a tart finish. Drink with chicken or tomato-based dishes.

Sour cherries in a glass

As part of a piece I am currently writing about South African wines, I tried a 2002 Bilton Merlot over the weekend ($20.99 in PA Wine and Spirits Stores, not sure about availability in the DC area.)

I was expecting typical jammy Merlot-like flavors. What I got instead was a mouthful of sour cherries. This isn't necessary a bad thing. Sangiovese-based wines like Chianti are ful of that sour cherry and dusty earth flavor, and Pinot Noirs from cooler sites like New Zealand and Burgundy can also exhibit a sour cherry/cranberry flavor. It was just unexpected. It certainly had gobs of zingy acidity, but I just wish it had had a bit more fruit and structure. It was a 2002, and I don't think it needs any more bottle ageing--it's as good as it's going to get.

Anyway, if sour red wines are your thing, seek it out. My mouth is watering right now just thinking about it.

It's all in the name...

Decanter reported that the EU has ruled against Italy, and that wine from the Fruili region, which has been called Tocai Fruiliano, can now only be called Fruiliano. The panel decided that the name Tokay (along with its spelling variations) can only be used for Hungarian wines (typically sweet, but not always.)

Italy is obviously not happy with this ruling, as 1. Fruiliano is not as descriptive; and 2. They will need to rebrand wine from this region, which is not an easy task. Under this same ruling, Tokay d'Alsace and Tokay Pinot Gris will need to change their names as well.

It's well known that in Europe (specifically, France and Italy), wine and food items are often named for the place from which they originate (think Champagne, Chianti and Parma ham). In the U.S., we unfortunately don't have the same restrictions and laws, especially for wines. Thus, you can find CA jug wines on the shelf with names like "Hearty Burgundy" and "Chablis." That always bugs me. Several times I have mentioned Burgundy and Chablis during a wine tasting, only to be told by a guest that they don't like these wines. When I question them further, they tell me that what they don't like are the jug wines that bear those names. Once they find out what "real" Burgundy and Chablis are, they are willing to give them a try. I realize that these labels have been on the bottles for a long time, and there are rebranding issues here as well, but winemakers are doing U.S. winedrinkers a disservice by this false advertising.

If you are a wine collector, you may want to pick up a case of the last vintage of Tokai Fruiliano. It's a definite collector's item.

Wine for pumpkin pie

I love the flavors of fall, especially pumpkin, cinnamon and nutmeg. But what to enjoy with that most American of desserts, pumpkin pie?

Well, to have a successful dessert and wine pairing, the wine needs to be at least as sweet as the dessert, if not moreso, or it can end up tasting like vinegar. Luckily, pumpkin pie isn't typically THAT sweet...

I would go with a Gewurztraminer (maybe Hogue or Chateau St. Michelle from Washington State). A spicy Gewurz will pair with the spices in the pumpkin pie, while adding some interesting and heady honeysuckle aromas.

You could also try a demi-sec Champagne, which has some sugar, as well as refreshing bubbles to cleanse your palate of the richness of the pie.

Happy baking!!!

"Diet" champagne

A new trend in Champagne is "Brut Zero," where no dosage is added to the finished product. Dosage is the sugar solution that is usually added to Champagne just before the final corkage. While it can be used to add body and complexity, it's also used to mask grapes that didn't ripen enough (a huge problem in the cold, rainy Champagne region), or to counter too much acidity.

However, some Champagne makers are skipping this final step, making a bottle of bubbly that tastes purer, with more mineral components than crisp fruitiness. It can be an aquired taste, but it's definitely worth a try if you are a Champagne lover.

If you want to try this style of Champagne, look for "Non-Dosed" on the label. Piper Heidsieck, among other prestigious producers, are now making this style.

These non-dosed style would pair really well with shellfish, including oysters.

Wine on TV

After years of dating shows, races around the world, and surviving 30 days on a remote island, I guess it was bound to happen.

Decanter reported that 2 wine-related realty shows are in the works.. Filmaking has begun for "The Winemakers," where amateur oenophiles will make wine in Paso Robles. And "Corkscrewed" The Wrath of Grapes" will premiere in November (this show is a joint US/UK venture...)

Maybe the popularity of reality cooking shows led producers to think "hmmm....what about wine?" And of course, if I had heard of this shows before now, I would have loved to audition for them. But I'm not sure how popular they will be with the American public. Are the TV viewers who watch realty shows the same ones who consume most of the wine in the U.S.? Not sure about that...

Nonetheless, I'll get my TiVo set when I hear air dates, and give them a go.

Some wine and food pairing tips for cooler weather

By October, we've pretty much traded in our shorts and t-shirts for jeans and sweaters (though you wouldn't know it by yesterday's weather in the DC area.) Here are some food and wine pairings to celebrate the arrival of autumn:

Côtes du Rhône: This French wine can be a blend of up to 15 grapes, including Syrah and Grenache, and it’s made for cold-weather comfort foods. Its earthiness pairs well with any mushroom-based dishes, including Coq au Vin and stuffed mushrooms.

Gewürztraminer: Literally “spicy grape” in German, this wine offers a touch of the exotic, including aromas and flavors of honeysuckle and ginger (think potpourri in a glass, in a good way.) Pair with roasted pork tenderloin, or ginger-peach crisp.

Red Zinfandel: Big, bold and spicy, (and nothing like its distant cousin White Zinfandel,) Red Zin is perfect for Steak Au Poivre, and is also the perfect match for your Thanksgiving turkey.

Here comes a Pink Truck

Red Truck wines, the popular, low-priced wines that you can find at World Market and other stores in the DC area, has just rolled out Pink Truck.

A cross between Zinfandel, Grenache and Mourvedre, this wine seeks to attract wine drinkers who think White Zin is too sweet (or too embarassing to drink), while dry Roses are too, well, dry. Pink Truck has 20% less residual sugar than White Zinfandel, while retaining some sweetness, along with strawberry and raspberry flavors.

I'll have to give this a try. I love dry Roses, and I'm curious to see if Pink Truck is more like a true Rose, or more like "white Zin light."

If it's decent, it could be a good choice for Thanksgiving turkey, to satisfy those who don't like red Zin or dry whites...

Need some help in pairing food and wine?

If you feel overwhelemed when attempting to pair food with wine, there are lots of resources available to help. First of all, remember that there are no hard and fast rules. The "white with fish and red with meat" rule is WAY out of date. It makes more sense to think about 1. the way a dish is prepared; and 2. any sauces of accompaniments.

Here are some books that I recommend on the subject of food and wine pairing:

Perfect Pairings, by Evan Goldstein: Part cookbook, part informational source, this Master Sommelier provides information on classic pairings, as well as some you may not have thought of.

How to Match Food and Wine, by Fiona Beckett: This small, pocket-sized book (64 pages) is a good, basic reference to keep on hand when planning a menu.

Great Tastes Made Simple, by Andrea Immer: Andrea's enthusiasm and love of wine is infectious, and her books are approachable, easy to read and chock-full of information.

Good luck! And remember, if you book a wine tasting or Wine 101 class with me, I'll provide lots of food and wine pairing tips during the class. Check out my website for more information.

Kelly is now a featured speaker of the Washington Wine Academy

I have recently jumped on board with the area's largest wine education organization, the Washington Wine Academy. They provide wine tastings and classes for groups of all sizes, and especially needed someone to conduct tastings for smaller groups. Since the majority of my tastings are typically for 30 or less guests (for bridal showers, bachelorette parties, dinner parties, etc.), it seemed to be a perfect fit.

You can find out more about the WWA, and read my bio, here. I'm looking forward to a fun and successful partnership with them.

Made in the U.S.A.

I went to a wine tasting last night where the theme was "wines from your home state." Now, there were only a few of us there, so the entire country wasn't well represented, but we tried several from Virginia and California (no brainer to find good wine from THAT state...) as well as the bottle I brought from Pennsylvania (Clover Hill Riesling. Winery owned by the family of good friends of mine. It was a decent Riesling, and certainly not as sweet as I had feared.)

Wine is made in all 50 states. Yes, even Alaska. However, in my humble opinion, some states cheat when it comes to winemaking, sourcing grapes from other states, and just fermenting it. (I realize that even CA outsources grapes, but they also grow a ton of them, making them more "legit" in my eyes...)

I guess I shouldn't be bitter about that. Winemaking and wine drinking are growing at a rapid rate all over the U.S., which can only be a good thing. It's just that, if I visit, say Minnesota, and bring back a bottle of Minnesota wine, I would like to know that the whole product came from Minnesota. I'm not singling out this state, who for all I know DOES grow its own grapes for wine. Just using it as an example.

It's similar to going on vacation to Hawaii, bringing back some ticky-tacky souvenirs, and finding out that they are made in China. Just not as satisfying.

Anyway, I will continue to seek out local wines wherever I go. My brother is living in Hawaii right now, and I heard they make pineapple wine there. Could be interesting...or absolutely undrinkable. But I'd still like to try it.

New DC Food and Wine Show in November

I just found out yesterday about a brand new food/cooking and wine show in DC called the Metropolitan Cooking and Entertaining Show. It'll be held from November 3-5 at the Washington Convention Center, and it will include cooking demonstrations, wine and beer tasting, and talks by lots of famous "foodies." Tickets are $20 in advance, and $22 the day of the show.

I plan on being there at some point during the weekend at the Washington Wine Academy table. If you are looking to book me for a wine tasting for the holidays, (maybe for a wine club, dinner party, holiday party, etc.), stop on by. Or just stop on by to say hello.

Check out the website:

http://www.metrocooking.com/home.html

What did you say it tastes like?

Looking for a red that's a little bit different? Look no further than South Africa's Pinotage. This red grape, a cross between Cinsault and Pinot Noir is rough, gamey, and savage. It's borderline funky, and can have notes of rubber, tar, leather and nail varnish (it may sound disgusting, but it's quite fascinating...) Serve it with game (as the locals do,) or with any grilled or roasted red meat. Spier and KWV are common producers. If you haven't already, give it a try this fall.