Monday, March 31, 2008

A business school project turns liquid


Friends and fellow Cornell business school students Scott Krahn and David Hughes decided to tackle the gin game during their third-year entrepreneurship class. Their intended task? To create a theoretical gin that appealed to their demographic. In a nutshell, a gin for the vodka drinker: aromatic, yet approachable.

The fruits of their labor were so successful that they took their project out of the classroom, and into the distillery. DH Krahn Gin, released this past fall, contains an exotic, heady list of aromatics, including Italian juniper berries, Moroccan coriander seed, Thai ginger root, and citrus peels from California.

I tried DH Krahn gin this weekend, and loved it. The aromatics are definitely a bit different than my other preferred gins--I think the Thai ginger really gives it a unique kick. It makes a delish G&T, but the press kit I received also contained some other great cocktails to try. This one was our favorite:

Elderflower Collins
2 oz. DH Krahn gin
3/4 oz. fresh lemon juice
1/2 oz. simple syrup
1/2 oz. Elderflower liqueur (St. Germain)
Club soda

Combine first four ingredients in a mixing glass, then add ice. Shake well, then strain over fresh ice into a Collins glass. Top with club soda.

**We actually thought it would have been even tastier without the club soda, strained into a martini glass. The soda diluted the gin and elderflower taste a bit. But it was still really refreshing.

For more info, go to DH Krahn's website.

Thursday, March 27, 2008

South African wine class

If Pinotage and Steen are unfamiliar to you, then consider coming out to Ashburn's WineSmith's South African wines class this Sunday evening. I'll be teaching the class, and we'll be tasting some of the stellar offerings coming out of this breathtaking country. For more info, check out the following, or go to WineSmith's website:

March Wine Classes Special Interest Class:
South African Wines
Sunday, March 30th, 5:00 - 6:15 PM
Learn more about the exciting wines coming from South Africa, including Pinotage, Cape Blends, and Chenin Blanc. All classes are $30 per person; advance payment required. Call (703) 729-2970 to RSVP.

Dinner with a Washington star

I attended a wine dinner last evening at Mrs. K's Tollhouse in Silver Spring, where Chateau Ste Michelle's wines were paired with the chef's delicious creations. I had the pleasure of sitting at the table with CSM's Head Winemaker Bob Bertheau, who has been in charge of making all of the winery's still wines (Domaine Ste. Michelle's sparkling wines are in a separate divsion) for the past five years. I've always been a huge fan of this winery, and even got the chance to tour and taste at the breathtaking chateau a few years ago while on a trip to Seattle, so it was a huge thrill for me to hear Bob's stories about the hows and whys of making some of these incredible wines. I've always been amazed about how, especially with their red wines, the winery strikes that delicate balance of Old World restraint and New World fruit, at a price point that allows you to elevate even a weeknight dinner, or takeout. Many of their bottles simply taste a lot pricier than they are.

The pairings last night were stellar. Grilled shrimp with Thai peanut sauce was paired with the complex, rich 2006 Eroica Riesling, while the subtle, spicy notes and great fruit of the 2006 Canoe Ridge Estate Chardonnay played well with creamy lobster bouchee. The two main entrees were game--the first a tender, succulent ostrich with Cabernet reduction (the chef used the same wine we sipped with the course--2005 Indian Wells Cabernet Sauvignon); followed by pheasant breast with mushrooms and Merlot sauce (enjoyed with 2005 Canoe Ridge Estate Merlot). Bob pointed out that in WA, Merlot often has more structure than Cabernet--which is typically the reverse in other areas of the world where the two grapes are grown side by side.

Bob selected the botrytized Ethos Late Harvest Riesling to sip with apple foster and vanilla ice cream for dessert--and the consensus at my table was that this was the best pairing of the evening. The winery rarely makes ice wine, since the WA climate isn't always cooperative, but Bob said he prefers the complexity of this wine anyway--there was a lot going on in the nose, including a hint of the petrol that you often get in an aged German Riesling, which here manifested itself as a vinyl shower curtain. The flavor was rich honey and pear, though. Really beautiful.

Mrs. K's often offers wine dinners. For more information, visit their website. And for more info on CSM wine, go to http://www.ste-michelle.com/.

Wednesday, March 26, 2008

Happy Birthday Jaleo!

Hard to believe, but Jose Andres' Jaleo, which pretty much introduced the notion of tapas and small plates to DC palates and beyond, is celebrating its 15th anniversary in April. Lots of cool events are planned surrounding the birthday, including a wine and tapas pairing:

A highlight of the celebration, 15 Tastes of Spain is an exclusive wine tasting being held on April 28th at 6:30 PM at Jaleo, located at 480 7th Street, NW. Inspired by the 15th anniversary, Jaleo’s culinary team has created a unique tasting of eight exceptional wines with seven of Jaleo’s premiere tapas.

José Andrés and Rob Wilder will be on hand to welcome guests to this intimate event and THINKfoodGROUP’s Antoni Yelamos will share the unique stories behind the premium wines that will be featured, including Vinicola Hidalgo Amontillado Viejo sherry, 2003 Torres Milmanda (Penedes), 1995 Cune Viña Real Gran Reserva (Rioja) and 1999 Costers del Siurana Dolc de L'Obac (Priorat).

After the tasting, attendees will be treated to samples of Jamon Iberico, yogurt sperification, erizo with piparrana, braised veal cheeks, artisanal Spanish cheeses and more. Space is limited for this festive event and participation is priced at $75 per person (tax and gratuity not included). Guests should call (202) 628-7949 to reserve.

For more info, check out Jaleo's website.

Monday, March 24, 2008

Gnome's Water

A few weeks ago, while researching cocktails for an article I'm working on, I got to taste through Gina Chersevani's liquid creations at EatBar (I love my job...) Everything she does is inventive, cool and often unexpected, but the best libation I tasted that night, in my humble opinion, was her Gnome's Water. She combines cucumber and rose-scented Hendrick's Gin with lavender, cucumber water and fresh lime, and the resulting sipper is irresistibly refreshing. I can see myself drinking this all summer long...and it would go perfectly with oysters or clams on the half shell.

To check out Gina's masterpieces for yourself, head to EatBar in Arlington.

Tuesday, March 18, 2008

A light, Loire red

As the weather starts to get warmer, my wine tastes change a bit. I start to gravitate towards zingy whites, sometimes with a bit of spritz (like Vinho Verde...) and I look for reds that won't feel or taste too heavy. Some obvious choices are (some) Pinot Noirs, as well as Beaujolais and Barbera. But don't overlook the Loire Valley...

Chinon is made from the Cabernet Franc grape, and in the Loire, it's usually done in a lovely, lighter style. Domaine Semellerie Chinon (available at Total Wine here in No. VA...) has great cherry and strawberry on the nose, along with a whiff of violets for which the grape is known. It's low in tannins, and would pair well with ham this Easter, or with your Passover lamb. We enjoyed it with roast chicken with lemon and rosemary, but it's very versatile, and I plan on sipping it a lot more this spring.

Monday, March 17, 2008

Beyond green beer...

Two other options to sip on March 17:

Boru Vodka, named for Brian Boru, the legendary king who united Ireland. Clean, yet with a nice bite on the finish. Enjoy it neat, in a martini, or in your favorite vodka-based cocktail.

Coole Swan Liqueur, an ultra-premium Bailey's-alternative made with chocolate, Madagascar vanilla, Irish cream and Irish whiskey.

Happy St. Patrick's Day!

Wednesday, March 12, 2008

Cheese + Dessert + Port = Heaven

When I dine out and it comes time for dessert, I'm often torn between the cheese plate, and something sweeter. A few weeks ago, while planning the menu and picking the wines for a client's wine tasting dinner, I noticed a fantastic marriage of cheese plate and dessert on the chef's menu selections: Stilton cheesecake. I knew I had to pick that, and I definitely wanted the classic wine pairing--Port--to sip alongside it.

The wine tasting was the other evening, and it was a stellar pairing that had everyone oohing and aahhing. The cheesecake had a shortbread crust, while the filling had just the right amount of Stilton flavor, along with some smooth cream cheese, and a touch of Port. The dessert was delicious and decadent without being that sweet.

I selected a 2003 Quinta de la Rosa Vintage Port to sip with this dessert. Although it's still very young and will no doubt get even smoother and more complex as the years go on, it was delish--with sweet dark berries and violet aromas, and some crispness on the finish that will no doubt get punchier over time. It was a great preview of what's to come from the bottle in the coming years.

The chef told me she discovered the cheesecake on the Epicurious website. I did a search, and found the recipe. She wasn't able to get rhubarb for the compote, so she substituted strawberry, which worked wonderfully.

Mmmmmm.....

Monday, March 10, 2008

Vermouth from Scratch

Mention Vermouth, and many people think of the ingredient that makes a martini (the dry style) or a Manhattan (the sweet style). However, beyond being a cocktail staple, Vermouth is lovely and aromatic to sip by itself as an aperitif.

Sebastian Zutant, wine director at DC's wine-centric Proof restaurant, makes his own Vermouth from scratch, and it's wonderful. I dined at Proof a few months back, sampled Zutant's homemade version, and then wrote an article about it for Wine Enthusiast. Here is the link.

Friday, March 07, 2008

X marks the spot


I recently tried the 2006 Lake County Sauvignon Blanc from X Winery, producer of the suggestive Syrahtica that I wrote about in a recent article for Wine Enthusiast (the picture on this post shows the 2007, which was just released.)


It had more of a lush mouthfeel than the more pungent, herbaceous bottles I typically go for (it undergoes partial malolactic fermentation), but it did have a decent line of crispness running through it. I got both grapefruit and tropical fruit notes, and some minerality on the finish. There were 784 cases produced, and it retails for $16.99.

For more info, visit X Winery's website.


Wednesday, March 05, 2008

Wine Class at WineSmith

Looking for a great way to spend an hour or so on Sunday? Then attend the Wine Fundamentals class I'll be teaching at WineSmith in Ashburn. Here are the details:

Wine Fundamentals Class
Sunday, March 9th
5:00 - 6:15 PM
Get the basic information you need to begin appreciating wine more fully!

For more information, call (703) 729-2970, or visit WineSmith's website.

Tuesday, March 04, 2008

The dimple in the glass just bugged me

I just finished writing an article that tested and analyzed wine aerators. Although people tend to use "decant" and "aerate" interchangeably, decanting actually refers to the process of removing sediment from red wines (mostly older bottles, but not always). Tannin from grapes’ skins, stems and seeds, as well as from any oak used in fermentation or ageing, drops out over time as fine, dark particles, rendering a wine smoother and mellower. Aerating, on the contrary, opens up young wines that feel too tannic, and whose aromas and flavors are either harsh or sharp, or imperceptible. I tested 6 aerators, and I'll post when the article is published.

This past weekend, at the DC Wine and Food Festival, I came across a few other tools that promised to "open up" wines and make them more mellow, flavorful and approachable. One of them was actually not an aerator, per se, but a glass whose design allows for aeration.

The Taste of Purple glass has a "dimple", which catches the wine as you swirl it around the glass, adding oxygen. (The glass basically looks as if you pressed your thumb into it when it was still hot and malleable.)

I did a before and after aroma test with the Taste of Purple, and the aroma was definitely more apparent after the wine was swirled around the dimpled glass. The rep then asked me what I thought about the product. From a usability standpoint, it couldn't have been easier--no extra tool to deal with, and the wine would (theoretically) get better as you sipped and swirled.

However, from an aesthetic standpoint, the dimple bugged me. Maybe it was the asymmetry of it all, or the fact that it appeared that my glass was deformed. But it bothered me to drink out of it, and I personally don't think it would be an attractive option for entertaining. (At $40 a pop, I can't see replacing my current glassware...) The company also offers a pair of stemless dimpled glasses for $36, and a funky decanter for $129 (it look like a giant, odd-shaped wineglass. Kind of a neat conversation piece, but it didn't pour so nicely--wine dripped down the side, even though the rep was careful when he poured it.)

I think I'll stick with my Vinturi, and keep my glassware. But hey, different strokes for different...wine lovers.

For more information, visit Taste of Purple's website.

Small Plates, Good Drinks

Last week I attended a media dinner announcing the relaunch of Charlie Chiang's in Shirlington, renamed Ping. Now, the interior is sleeker (dark red and black), and the menu has been revamped to include xiao die (small plates). We tasted through a lot of the popular dishes, including fantastic chicken gyoza, steamed pork buns (my favorite Dim Sum treat...) and scallops that were fried in tempura that had chopped up shrimp in the batter.

I was super excited because the white that was being poured all evening was from my favorite New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc producer--Spy Valley. Although I typically choose Gewurz or Riesling with Asian food (the aromatic wines are a great match for the fantastic aromas, spices and seasonings going on in so many Asian dishes), this bright white fit the bill for many of the dishes we tried.

The cocktail menu had some interesting choices as well, including a "martini" made with Grey Goose La Poire, elderflower liqueur (I've been hearing of this being used more and more in drinks...) and sparkling wine. And the cocktails were certainly potent, if that's your thing.

You can find out more about Ping on Charlie Chiang's website.

Monday, March 03, 2008

DC Food and Wine: Better Wines, More Space

I spent some time this weekend at the Washington, DC International Food and Wine Festival. (I actually did a live segment on Friday's 5 PM news on Channel 8 on behalf of the festival. Though there doesn't seem to be a link to it on their site. So hopefully you were lucky to catch my "brilliant" TV debut live...)


The exclusive Grand Cru on Friday evening opened up the weekend, where chefs from some of the area's top restaurants prepared and served small tastes of some of their signature dishes. (Rockfish seemed to be the unintentional theme, with at least three restaurants serving dishes that included this popular local fish. But they were all tasty, especially one from PS7.)


To wash down all of these tasty nibbles, lots of wines were poured, including some high-end offerings like Far Niente Chardonnay, Opus One and Insignia. I typically don't buy into $$$ wine hype, and I'm often more excited to drink a $10 bottle of Malbec that tastes like a $30 bottle, than I am to sip a $200 plus bottle of wine. But if someone else is pouring--and paying--then sure, why not.


The festival itself was held on Saturday and Sunday afternoon. I strolled around during the trade hours on Sunday, and stayed for a bit during the consumer hours. As promised, festival organizers sold less tickets to keep things less crowded. I'll recap over the next week or so some of the wines and food I sampled.