As part of a piece I am currently writing about South African wines, I tried a 2002 Bilton Merlot over the weekend ($20.99 in PA Wine and Spirits Stores, not sure about availability in the DC area.)
I was expecting typical jammy Merlot-like flavors. What I got instead was a mouthful of sour cherries. This isn't necessary a bad thing. Sangiovese-based wines like Chianti are ful of that sour cherry and dusty earth flavor, and Pinot Noirs from cooler sites like New Zealand and Burgundy can also exhibit a sour cherry/cranberry flavor. It was just unexpected. It certainly had gobs of zingy acidity, but I just wish it had had a bit more fruit and structure. It was a 2002, and I don't think it needs any more bottle ageing--it's as good as it's going to get.
Anyway, if sour red wines are your thing, seek it out. My mouth is watering right now just thinking about it.
Monday, October 16, 2006
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