More South African wines to try

I just finished my article on South African wines, which will appear in the Winter, 2007, edition of Pennsylvania's Wine Spirits Quarterly. Here are the reviews for the wines I tried for the article, along with the retail price in PA:

2004 Pecan Stream Chenin Blanc Stellenbosch ($10.99): This light-bodied white has a floral nose, along with crisp apples on the palate. Try it with pasta or chicken with cream sauce, or with soft cheeses and a fruit tray.

2004 Fairview Sauvignon Blanc ($11.49): A somewhat herbaceous aroma gives way to flavors of lime zest and gooseberry, along with good acidity and a mineral finish. Pair with a mixed greens salad with goat cheese and a light vinaigrette.

2004 Robertson Winery Pinotage ($9.99): Red berries are apparent on the nose, along with flavors of blackberry, smoke and a hint of nail polish. Goes well with beef, lamb and game dishes.

2003 Kanonkop Kadette ($13.99): This blend of Pinotage, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot (in roughly equal amounts) has a smoky, berry nose, and notes of rubber tires and blackberry on the palate. Try it with smoked meats or cheeses.

2002 Bilton Merlot ($20.99): A typical jammy Merlot aroma, with sour cherries and plums on the palate, along with a tart finish. Drink with chicken or tomato-based dishes.

Sour cherries in a glass

As part of a piece I am currently writing about South African wines, I tried a 2002 Bilton Merlot over the weekend ($20.99 in PA Wine and Spirits Stores, not sure about availability in the DC area.)

I was expecting typical jammy Merlot-like flavors. What I got instead was a mouthful of sour cherries. This isn't necessary a bad thing. Sangiovese-based wines like Chianti are ful of that sour cherry and dusty earth flavor, and Pinot Noirs from cooler sites like New Zealand and Burgundy can also exhibit a sour cherry/cranberry flavor. It was just unexpected. It certainly had gobs of zingy acidity, but I just wish it had had a bit more fruit and structure. It was a 2002, and I don't think it needs any more bottle ageing--it's as good as it's going to get.

Anyway, if sour red wines are your thing, seek it out. My mouth is watering right now just thinking about it.

It's all in the name...

Decanter reported that the EU has ruled against Italy, and that wine from the Fruili region, which has been called Tocai Fruiliano, can now only be called Fruiliano. The panel decided that the name Tokay (along with its spelling variations) can only be used for Hungarian wines (typically sweet, but not always.)

Italy is obviously not happy with this ruling, as 1. Fruiliano is not as descriptive; and 2. They will need to rebrand wine from this region, which is not an easy task. Under this same ruling, Tokay d'Alsace and Tokay Pinot Gris will need to change their names as well.

It's well known that in Europe (specifically, France and Italy), wine and food items are often named for the place from which they originate (think Champagne, Chianti and Parma ham). In the U.S., we unfortunately don't have the same restrictions and laws, especially for wines. Thus, you can find CA jug wines on the shelf with names like "Hearty Burgundy" and "Chablis." That always bugs me. Several times I have mentioned Burgundy and Chablis during a wine tasting, only to be told by a guest that they don't like these wines. When I question them further, they tell me that what they don't like are the jug wines that bear those names. Once they find out what "real" Burgundy and Chablis are, they are willing to give them a try. I realize that these labels have been on the bottles for a long time, and there are rebranding issues here as well, but winemakers are doing U.S. winedrinkers a disservice by this false advertising.

If you are a wine collector, you may want to pick up a case of the last vintage of Tokai Fruiliano. It's a definite collector's item.

Wine for pumpkin pie

I love the flavors of fall, especially pumpkin, cinnamon and nutmeg. But what to enjoy with that most American of desserts, pumpkin pie?

Well, to have a successful dessert and wine pairing, the wine needs to be at least as sweet as the dessert, if not moreso, or it can end up tasting like vinegar. Luckily, pumpkin pie isn't typically THAT sweet...

I would go with a Gewurztraminer (maybe Hogue or Chateau St. Michelle from Washington State). A spicy Gewurz will pair with the spices in the pumpkin pie, while adding some interesting and heady honeysuckle aromas.

You could also try a demi-sec Champagne, which has some sugar, as well as refreshing bubbles to cleanse your palate of the richness of the pie.

Happy baking!!!

"Diet" champagne

A new trend in Champagne is "Brut Zero," where no dosage is added to the finished product. Dosage is the sugar solution that is usually added to Champagne just before the final corkage. While it can be used to add body and complexity, it's also used to mask grapes that didn't ripen enough (a huge problem in the cold, rainy Champagne region), or to counter too much acidity.

However, some Champagne makers are skipping this final step, making a bottle of bubbly that tastes purer, with more mineral components than crisp fruitiness. It can be an aquired taste, but it's definitely worth a try if you are a Champagne lover.

If you want to try this style of Champagne, look for "Non-Dosed" on the label. Piper Heidsieck, among other prestigious producers, are now making this style.

These non-dosed style would pair really well with shellfish, including oysters.

Wine on TV

After years of dating shows, races around the world, and surviving 30 days on a remote island, I guess it was bound to happen.

Decanter reported that 2 wine-related realty shows are in the works.. Filmaking has begun for "The Winemakers," where amateur oenophiles will make wine in Paso Robles. And "Corkscrewed" The Wrath of Grapes" will premiere in November (this show is a joint US/UK venture...)

Maybe the popularity of reality cooking shows led producers to think "hmmm....what about wine?" And of course, if I had heard of this shows before now, I would have loved to audition for them. But I'm not sure how popular they will be with the American public. Are the TV viewers who watch realty shows the same ones who consume most of the wine in the U.S.? Not sure about that...

Nonetheless, I'll get my TiVo set when I hear air dates, and give them a go.

Some wine and food pairing tips for cooler weather

By October, we've pretty much traded in our shorts and t-shirts for jeans and sweaters (though you wouldn't know it by yesterday's weather in the DC area.) Here are some food and wine pairings to celebrate the arrival of autumn:

Côtes du Rhône: This French wine can be a blend of up to 15 grapes, including Syrah and Grenache, and it’s made for cold-weather comfort foods. Its earthiness pairs well with any mushroom-based dishes, including Coq au Vin and stuffed mushrooms.

Gewürztraminer: Literally “spicy grape” in German, this wine offers a touch of the exotic, including aromas and flavors of honeysuckle and ginger (think potpourri in a glass, in a good way.) Pair with roasted pork tenderloin, or ginger-peach crisp.

Red Zinfandel: Big, bold and spicy, (and nothing like its distant cousin White Zinfandel,) Red Zin is perfect for Steak Au Poivre, and is also the perfect match for your Thanksgiving turkey.

Here comes a Pink Truck

Red Truck wines, the popular, low-priced wines that you can find at World Market and other stores in the DC area, has just rolled out Pink Truck.

A cross between Zinfandel, Grenache and Mourvedre, this wine seeks to attract wine drinkers who think White Zin is too sweet (or too embarassing to drink), while dry Roses are too, well, dry. Pink Truck has 20% less residual sugar than White Zinfandel, while retaining some sweetness, along with strawberry and raspberry flavors.

I'll have to give this a try. I love dry Roses, and I'm curious to see if Pink Truck is more like a true Rose, or more like "white Zin light."

If it's decent, it could be a good choice for Thanksgiving turkey, to satisfy those who don't like red Zin or dry whites...

Need some help in pairing food and wine?

If you feel overwhelemed when attempting to pair food with wine, there are lots of resources available to help. First of all, remember that there are no hard and fast rules. The "white with fish and red with meat" rule is WAY out of date. It makes more sense to think about 1. the way a dish is prepared; and 2. any sauces of accompaniments.

Here are some books that I recommend on the subject of food and wine pairing:

Perfect Pairings, by Evan Goldstein: Part cookbook, part informational source, this Master Sommelier provides information on classic pairings, as well as some you may not have thought of.

How to Match Food and Wine, by Fiona Beckett: This small, pocket-sized book (64 pages) is a good, basic reference to keep on hand when planning a menu.

Great Tastes Made Simple, by Andrea Immer: Andrea's enthusiasm and love of wine is infectious, and her books are approachable, easy to read and chock-full of information.

Good luck! And remember, if you book a wine tasting or Wine 101 class with me, I'll provide lots of food and wine pairing tips during the class. Check out my website for more information.

Kelly is now a featured speaker of the Washington Wine Academy

I have recently jumped on board with the area's largest wine education organization, the Washington Wine Academy. They provide wine tastings and classes for groups of all sizes, and especially needed someone to conduct tastings for smaller groups. Since the majority of my tastings are typically for 30 or less guests (for bridal showers, bachelorette parties, dinner parties, etc.), it seemed to be a perfect fit.

You can find out more about the WWA, and read my bio, here. I'm looking forward to a fun and successful partnership with them.

Made in the U.S.A.

I went to a wine tasting last night where the theme was "wines from your home state." Now, there were only a few of us there, so the entire country wasn't well represented, but we tried several from Virginia and California (no brainer to find good wine from THAT state...) as well as the bottle I brought from Pennsylvania (Clover Hill Riesling. Winery owned by the family of good friends of mine. It was a decent Riesling, and certainly not as sweet as I had feared.)

Wine is made in all 50 states. Yes, even Alaska. However, in my humble opinion, some states cheat when it comes to winemaking, sourcing grapes from other states, and just fermenting it. (I realize that even CA outsources grapes, but they also grow a ton of them, making them more "legit" in my eyes...)

I guess I shouldn't be bitter about that. Winemaking and wine drinking are growing at a rapid rate all over the U.S., which can only be a good thing. It's just that, if I visit, say Minnesota, and bring back a bottle of Minnesota wine, I would like to know that the whole product came from Minnesota. I'm not singling out this state, who for all I know DOES grow its own grapes for wine. Just using it as an example.

It's similar to going on vacation to Hawaii, bringing back some ticky-tacky souvenirs, and finding out that they are made in China. Just not as satisfying.

Anyway, I will continue to seek out local wines wherever I go. My brother is living in Hawaii right now, and I heard they make pineapple wine there. Could be interesting...or absolutely undrinkable. But I'd still like to try it.

New DC Food and Wine Show in November

I just found out yesterday about a brand new food/cooking and wine show in DC called the Metropolitan Cooking and Entertaining Show. It'll be held from November 3-5 at the Washington Convention Center, and it will include cooking demonstrations, wine and beer tasting, and talks by lots of famous "foodies." Tickets are $20 in advance, and $22 the day of the show.

I plan on being there at some point during the weekend at the Washington Wine Academy table. If you are looking to book me for a wine tasting for the holidays, (maybe for a wine club, dinner party, holiday party, etc.), stop on by. Or just stop on by to say hello.

Check out the website:

http://www.metrocooking.com/home.html

What did you say it tastes like?

Looking for a red that's a little bit different? Look no further than South Africa's Pinotage. This red grape, a cross between Cinsault and Pinot Noir is rough, gamey, and savage. It's borderline funky, and can have notes of rubber, tar, leather and nail varnish (it may sound disgusting, but it's quite fascinating...) Serve it with game (as the locals do,) or with any grilled or roasted red meat. Spier and KWV are common producers. If you haven't already, give it a try this fall.

Celebrate the arrival of fall

Fall is here. Next to summer, it's my favorite time of year. I love "sweater weather," pumpkin picking, and sitting by the fire with a glass of port or a big red. Wines that seemed too heavy in the heat of July and August become perfect in October or November.

Celebrate the arrival of autumn with one of these monster red wines, such as a GSM from Australia. These wines, an acronym for the grapes used (grenache, syrah and mourvedre), are similar in style to Rhone Valley blends, offering brambly fruit, spice and pepper.

Look for GSMs by Peter Lehmann, d'Arenberg, and Rosemount, among others. Enjoy a glass or two while putting away your shorts and t-shirts, and breaking out the sweaters and sweatshirts.

My article on wineenthusiast.net

Check out my latest article on Wine Enthusiast's website, which talks about wine matches for junk food.

Leathery Barolo

I was talking last week in my blog about how according to researchers, Nebbiolo has been shown to induce sleepiness.

This past weekend, though, I tried one that certainly didn't make me fall asleep. On the contrary, I sat up and took notice...

It was a 2001 Marchesi di Barolo. Barolo needs to be aged by law at least 3 years, so this one is going on 5. What's interesting about this kind of wine (as with all good reds...) is that over the years, complex flavors can develop, from strawberry, to violet, to mushrooms, to leather. This one smelled and tasted like a new leather jacket--in a good way. Very funky, and very interesting. The tannins were still there, but they did mellow out a bit during the bottle ageing, and I'm sure they would continue to do so.

This bottle retailed for $35--cheap by Barolo standards--and it's a bottle I would definitely go back to.

Nebbiolo for some "zzzzz's"

I read last night in the print edition of Wine Spectator that researchers did a study to measure the levels of melantonin in some red wines, and Nebbiolo came out on top with the highest amount. (Melatonin is the chemical responsible for relaxation/falling asleep.)

Nebbiolo is the classic Italian grape found in what's considered the best Italian red wine: Barolo. It's also found in Barbaresco (kind of a "mini Barolo.") Barolo is a monster of a red wine, that needs time in the bottle to develop its complex aromas and flavors, which can range from mushrooms, to leather, to violets, to berries.

Before we know it, Thanksgiving will be upon us, and the articles will start pouring out about how Red Zinfandel goes so well with Thanksgiving turkey. (While I agree, I think I'm going to find something ELSE to drink this year, just to be different...)

Since tryptophan (found in Turkey) also induces sleepiness--I'm sure all of the overindulgence of that day doesn't help either--I think I'll steer clear of serving any wine with Nebbiolo on Turkey Day. Otherwise, I won't be able to make it to pumpkin pie and Gewurztraminer...

Sunscreen for grapes?

Decanter reported yesterday that the winemaker for Quintessa wines in Napa Valley is spraying his grapes with a sunscreen type mixture to protect them from the scorching CA sun.

The mixture contains aloe vera--long known for its skin soothing propeties, algae--which has been known to block harmful UV rays, and yucca--a South American root vegetable traditionally used in alternative medicine (and cooking...)

Farmers in CA say this is a first, though it totally makes sense. If you can protect the grapes from too much sun exposure in hot climates (especially with global warming on the rise), and seal in moisture to prevent drought, it's a no-brainer. And, apparently, this salve won't affect the taste of the wine in the bottle.

If this is a success, I can see useful applications in other hot, arid wine-making areas of the world, such as parts of Australia, Spain, Portugal, Argentina and Southern France.

9/11: 5 Years Later

In the Spring of 2001, I attended the Windows on the World Wine School at the top of the World Trade Center. This two month course was taught by Kevin Zraly: famed sommelier, wine writer and educator, and head of the wine cellar at Windows on the World Restaurant. And it was the reason for my wanting to leave the technology field and get into the wine business.

The course was, in a word, amazing. The view was breathtaking, the wines were incredible, and Kevin's teaching style was approachable, warm, funny and entertaining. I loved taking the E train to the World Trade Center stop, riding the elevator to the top of the tower every week, and getting there early enough to get a seat in the front row.

In the summer of 2001, my husband and I left the Metro NYC area, and moved to the metro DC area, leaving lots of friends behind, many of whom worked in New York. On September 11, 2001, I was working in Georgetown for a realtor. I remember the first email I received that morning, from my friend Nicolai, who lived in NJ. He said that something hit one of the towers. I sat riveted to the computer and to the radio, watching and listening as the events unfolded that we all are all too familiar with.

The rest of the day passed in a blur. I went home early, and watched the news the rest of the day. I thought of the Windows on the World Restaurant, and all the employees who worked there--some of whom helped pour wine during my course, or waited on me when I went there for dinner after my last class. I thought about the beautiful view, and the beautiful towers. And I wondered if Kevin Zraly was safe.

It was so hard for me to process the devastation and loss of life. I kept thinking about the wine cellar, and all of the thousands of bottles that were lost. I think, for me, it was easier to think about bottles of wine being lost, than people's lives.

The Windows on the World School continues today, though the course is taught from a hotel in midtown. Kevin was at home that day, outside of the city. It goes without saying that 9/11 changed all of us in profound ways. I will never forget. And I will never forget my time at the top of the tower, each Monday evening, that spring.

Famous wines

MSN did an article yesterday about celebrities who have opened or are opening wineries:

http://lifestyle.msn.com/FoodandEntertaining/TheWineLife/Article.aspx?cp-documentid=686957>1=8526&wa=wsignin1.0

Arguably, the most famous of these is Francis Ford Coppola, whose Niebaum-Coppola winery opened in 1975. His most recent offering is single-serving sparkling wine in a can named for his daughter Sofia. More of a marketing ploy than a serious wine? Truth be told, it tastes pretty good. And at parties and openings, it's becoming a necessary accessory to hold a can in one hand, and a designer handbag in another.

Another great celebrity-owned winery is that of golfer Greg Norman, who makes killer shiraz and other wines in Australia. I'll admit, since I'm not a golfer, I didn't even know he was one until after I started drinking his wines...I just drank them because they were tasty.

Mario Andretti got into the wine business in 1996. Being from his hometown of Nazareth, Pennsylvania, I heard about this business venture from the very beginning. Heck, my mom even got me an autographed bottle--she just saw him around town and asked him for a signature (he's pretty approachable, and Nazareth is a small town.) He's had a lot of success in California with the Italian varietal Sangiovese, the grape used in Chianti and Brunello di Montalcino.

The next generation of celebrity winemakers? Well, Vince Neil of Motley Crue has opened Vince Wines, and Sting owns a very small winery in northern Italy and produces wine for just his friends and family. Oh, how I wish I were on Sting's friends and family list...