Thursday, May 29, 2008

And the sweet goes on


Last evening I went to Co Co Sala's press dinner. The opening of this restaurant, billed as DC's first and only "chocolate lounge," has been the buzz all over town for months.

The interior doesn't disappoint--gorgeous red and brown towns give a sumptuous, sleek, warm look. Co Co is divided into two main rooms--head left as you enter, and you'll see a row of banquettes, and a bar that runs the length of them. Head right, and you'll see the other side of the same bar. But this room has more of the loungey vibe, with lower tables and softer, velvet seating. Gas fires are alit, casting a warm glow. Two flat screen TVs behind the bar show chocolate being poured and made into confections (don't ask the bartender to turn on the Nationals game--they don't get cable. So it's all chocolate, all the time.)

Co Co's menu has small bites divided into four categories, with three selections of each: salads, sliders, mac and cheese and crabcakes. The lobster salad was lovely, with lemon aioli and avocado atop corn bread. And I'm a sucker for sliders--the bleu cheese and beef were my fave.

But chocolate aficionados come here for the five course "monde du chocolat," which is basically a chocolate tasting menu. Choose from Italian, Indian, Aztec or Childhood Favorites, and then the fun begins. An amuse bouche, the main dessert, an intermezzo, a cheese course (the only savory one out of five) and some petit fours. I tried most of all five courses from each of the four options, and it was palate overload. But there were a lot of winners. The five course monde du chocolate goes for 30 bucks, by the way.

There are lots of options to sip with all of this sugar and caffeine--Co Co pretty much provides an "elixir" pairing for each item on the menu. Their take on the mojito substitutes vanilla vodka for the rum, and adds chocolate shavings--I thought it was really refreshingly tasty without being sickening sweet, as I half-expected it to be.

We sipped Fumello Prosecco during the Monde du Chocolat. I had never had this Prosecco before, and it's nice tropical fruit overtones (I'm thinking pineapple, but I just couldn't put my finger on it...) were really pleasant.
Whenever I go back, I think it'll be for just desserts--maybe after some kind of special dinner someplace else. The small plates are kind of tiny and a bit pricey to sit and nosh on them all evening. But Co Co Sala is lounge in the truest sense of the word, and an inviting place to spend an hour or two and get your sugar on.

Wednesday, May 28, 2008

Vinifera

Last week I had the chance to go out and try Reston's answer to all the new DC wine bars that have cropped up over the last year or so. Vinifera is located in the Westin hotel in Restin Heights. Catering to locals as well as travelers, Vinifera's look is sleek yet approachable (think dark wood, muted tones and comfy seating.) The menu boasts 25 options by the glass or half glass, with an additional 250 selections available by the bottle. (Although Vinifera doesn't yet offer flights, that's one of their future plans, along with wine dinners and classes in the sumptuous private dining room that overlooks the patio).

Speaking of the patio, I can't think of a better spot for a summer evening--the Dulles Toll Road is close by, but you would never know it by sitting outside--you can't see it and you can barely hear it. Hardwood furniture gives it an upscale al fresco look--a perfect spot for sipping a glass of bubbly or crisp Albarino.

The menu focuses on tastings, or small plates. Highlights include chicken lollipops, tiger prawn potstickers and Margarita flat bread. If you crave more substantial fare, an entree menu is available at nearby tables. Service is friendly and knowledgeable, and the servers I encountered moonlight at area wine stores--so they know their stuff and are passionate about it.

I've been told the website(www.viniferabistro.com) should be up, but I haven't had any luck getting to it. Better to search using Westin's website. Oh, and I forgot to mention the FREE valet parking available out front. Just try to find that at a DC wine bar.

Tuesday, May 27, 2008

Pork and Pinot at the Park Hyatt

Here is info from a press release I received this morning about a new addition to the Park Hyatt's lounge menu. Although I typically prefer Pinot with duck or salmon, I think the rich, tender suckling pig would pair wonderfully with Pinot's earthiness, low tannins and tart cherry and raspberry flavors. And I concur with Diego Anea's review of the Belle Glos Pinot offering from Monterey--I tried all of their current bottles during my trip to Monterey last fall, and they are gorgeous, well-structured wines. The wax seal on the cork is a striking aesthetic touch, too--albeit somewhat difficult to remove.

Washington, D.C. (May 27, 2008) -- Executive Chef Brian McBride is pleased to introduce some delicious new dishes to Park Hyatt Washington’s Lounge menu with pork stealing center stage. Beginning June 11, every Wednesday evening highlights Pork & Pinot, from 5:30 p.m. to 9:30 p.m., with a whole roasted farm-raised suckling pig displayed on the Lounge’s expansive marble table so guests can enjoy a generous slice of pork accompanied with sweet potato biscuits for $8 per serving. Additional new pork dishes offered on the Lounge menu exclusively for Pork & Pinot, priced at $8 each, include Ham Hock Terrine, Glazed Pork Belly with White Beans, and Potted Pork with Garlic & Rosemary and Smoked Bacon Chips.

Park Hyatt Washington’s Lounge is also introducing the coveted Jamon Iberico de bellota. This rare, famous Spanish ham, a new arrival to the United States, will be carved on the marble lounge table for guests when ordered and is priced at $20 per ounce slice. Iberico pigs are descendants of sus mediterraneus, the wild boar that once inhabited the forests of the Mediterranean, popularly known as pata negra, or black hoof Iberico pigs. They are the last free ranging pigs in Europe. The term Iberico de bellota indicates an Iberico product is of the highest quality assuring consumers that the product is made from Iberico pigs born in the early spring and left to forage for the winter months, in the dehesa, the forest of Cork and Holm oaks of western Spain. During this time, known as the montanera, the pigs fatten up on fallen acorns or bellota and may gain up to a pound a day. This acorn-heavy diet gives the resulting hams an unsurpassed taste and sweetness to the meat.

To complete the savory pork dishes, a selection of Pinot Noir wines by the glass and by the bottle will be available, with prices ranging from $10 to $28 per glass and $95 to $180 per bottle. According to Diego Anea, the Executive Assistant Manager- Food & Beverage of Park Hyatt Washington, the wine that marries best with the Iberico is the Belle Glos 2005. “The Belle Glos is well structured, with a nice balance of fruit and tannins and its higher alcohol content, (15.1%) gives it a nice round mouth feel and a smooth, soft texture. It finishes clean but long and has a nice acidity which cuts through the richness of the Iberico,” states Mr. Anea.

Friday, May 23, 2008

Mark it with a Z

I spent last evening at Zola , sampling some of their most popular cocktails and selections from the new bar menu. My visit included an informative chat with Ralph Rosenberg, their Director of Operations.

The sleek restaurant, located next to DC's International Spy Museum (one of my fave museums in the city...) has lots of red and brushed metal. Spyholes allow you to see into the kitchen, without the noise that can often accompany the open kitchen concept. The bar itself is large and inviting, and adjacent small wooden tables allow you to linger with some nibbles and a drink.

As far as cocktails go, there are some stellar options. Much of what goes into the libations is seasonal, fresh and from scratch. The Zojito substitutes kumquats for limes, with platinum rum, housemade kaffir lime syrup, mint and Fever Tree (yum!) club soda. This version restored my faith in the Mojito--a drink I enjoyed for several summers but then kind of felt, well, over it. But I'll be grabbing my muddling and cutting up those kumquats this summer, I can see it.

The I.R.S. Raspberry made its debut on the cocktail menu during tax season, but its popularity made owners keep it on the menu. I was a bit skeptical, as the main ingredient is Maker's Mark, and I'm not really a bourbon fan. But the addition of raspberry green tea soda, limes and fresh raspberries definitely made it refreshingly palatable.

And the Passion is just a gorgeous drink--Champagne, citrus rum, passion fruit and a sugar rim, served in a trumpet-style flute.

The bar menu is divided into three (self-explanatory) sections: "I Feel Like Sharing," "It's All Mine" and "Zola TV Dinners." I pretty much tasted everything. The highlights for me were the savory cream puffs filled with braised beef and topped with a foie gras glaze; shrimp and lobster sliders--the purple potato chips on the side were to die for; grilled flat bread with prosciutto, figs, foie gras butter, mascarpone and balsamic drizzle; and the curried lamb tacos.

The TV dinners are a whimsical touch. Served on white ceramic trays with 4 compartments, the choices are duck salisbury steak, roast game hen, or broiled skate wing. Each comes with a starch and a veggie that change frequently--ours were creamy polenta and wax beans. And the "sweet surprise" was a decadent red velvet cupcake with cream cheese frosting--topped with a Z in red icing.

Skate has been one of my favorite fish dishes since having a heavenly one in Paris a few years back. Zola's version was rich and buttery, yet lights and flaky. Chef Bryan Moscatello explained that he grinds up duck legs and combines it with a blend of savory, sage and other spices for the duck salisbury steak--definitely not a Swanson's TV dinner.

Thursday, May 22, 2008

Mixology must-haves

From infused syrups and stuffed olives to bitters and salt-preserved citrus fruits, DC's top cocktail talents shared with me the items they find indispensable on the back bar in my article in Modern Luxury DC's June issue.

Tuesday, May 20, 2008

Kick it up

Lots of mixologists are using strong seasonings like hot peppers, spices and fresh herbs in their drinks right now. I interviewed some creative DC cocktailians for an article in May's issue of Modern Luxury DC. Look for it on DC-area newsstands, or read the article here.

Monday, May 19, 2008

Winds and Wine at Tarara

On Saturday, we headed out to the Winds and Wine festival at Tarara Winery outside Leesburg. It's such a gorgeous setting for a festival, and Saturday was a beautiful day. (The "winds" portion refers to kite flying, and truth be told, we only saw one or two in the sky...)

The winery just released the most recent vintage of their Viognier, and while standing in the wine sales line to buy a bottle to enjoy there, I couldn't help but notice that it seemed to be the most popular seller that day. I asked the rep working the register what was flying off the shelves at the festival, and he concurred that it was, in fact, the Viognier. Tarara's most recent offering has a bit of a spicy quality, along with some full-bodied honeysuckle and orange blossom notes. At $30 a bottle, it is a bit pricey compared to other VA Viogniers (or those from France, for that matter...) but it was very pleasant to sip on a warm spring Saturday afternoon.

After a wagon ride around the vineyard, we did the reserve tasting, and then met and chatted with Tarara's head winemaker, Jordan Harris. Born in Ontario, Harris had a hand at creating some of Canada's best wines before moving to Virginia. In talking to him, I can tell that he's influenced by French notions of terroir and quality. He seems excited by the winery's Meritage offerings, and is looking forward to new challenges, including growing and producing Uruguay's signature varietal, Tannat.

For more info on Tarara Winery and other upcoming festivals this summer, check out their website.

Friday, May 16, 2008

Classic cocktail for your Friday drinking pleasure...

For your Friday drinking pleasure, a classic cocktail that is also one of my favorites. The signature drink of Burma's Pegu Club years ago, The Pegu is one of those drinks that's just perfectly balanced--which is why I love it so much. It has sweet, sour and bitter notes, but none stands out and overwhelms any of the others.

Enjoy...

Pegu Club

2 ounces London dry gin
3/4 ounce orange curacao (you can substitute blue, which will add color, or Triple Sec)
3/4 ounce lime juice
1 dash Angostura bitters
1 dash orange bitters

Shake well with cracked ice, then strain into a chilled cocktail glass.

Thursday, May 15, 2008

Cocktail Trends to Watch

The Distilled Spirits Council of the U.S. (DISCUS) recently released their list of the top five cocktail trends to watch. DC mixologists are definitely ahead of the curve...

1. The rise of super premium spirits: Evidenced in part by the umpteen kinds of super premium gin alone out there. Check out New Heights' Gin Joint.

2. Innovative infusions: Everyone out there is doing simple syrups that are anything but...with fresh herbs, fruits, and even flowers. Aisling Fitzpatrick of Alexandria's Vermilion is big on infusions.

3. A fresh and seasonal focus: Todd Thrasher of PX and Restaurant Eve won't use it if it's not in season, and lots of other mixologists follow this golden rule.

4. Added bartending technique: It's not just throwing liquor and ice in a glass, says Sebastian Zutant of Proof, who makes his own Vermouth.

5. The resurgence of old-fashioned ingredients like Chartreuse and Creme de Violette, which Washington Post Spirits Columnist Jason Wilson reviewed awhile back.

Tuesday, May 13, 2008

Museum of the American Cocktail Dinner at DC's Proof

Last evening's dinner at DC's Proof restaurant was to celebrate National Cocktail Week, as well as to raise funds for the upcoming opening of the Museum of the American Cocktail in New Orleans. The city's most inventive mixologists were on hand to create luscious libations during the cocktail hour, as well as to pair with Chef Haidar Karoum's five-course menu.

I had such a phenomenal time--it was definitely one of the top food and drink events I've ever had the pleasure of attending. I sat at a small table in the bar, so we were front and center to watch the mixologists in action. It was cool to see hundreds of glasses lined up, ingredients being added to shakers (no powdered sour mixes here--everything was made fresh), and concoctions being garnished. Komi's Derek Brown even invited me to the back bar as an extra set of hands to shake the last round of 'tails. And it was a thrill for me to finally meet in person so many of the bar talents I've interviewed or used as resources in recent articles--and to see some old friends.

Here is the rundown of the evening:

Cocktail Hour Drinks:

Lady Randolph's Revenge (John Hogan, Hudson Lounge): John reinvented the Manhattan, making it just a touch kindler and gentler, yet still with a warm, Bourbon-y kick (and great cherry notes). The drink contained Woodford Reserve Bourbon, homemade bing cherry and Madagascar vanilla vermouth, Luxardo Maraschino Liqueur, Fee Brothers Whiskey Bitters, and Maraschino Espuma.

Zenzero Apertio (Chantal Tseng, Tabard Inn): Light, sparkling and refreshing, this drink contained sparkling wine, Caravella Limoncello, ginger syrup and a dash of Absinthe.

PaRappa the Rapper Punch (Adam Bernbach, Bar Pilar): So summery and tropical, I could totally see myself sipping this all day at a Caribbean resort. Adam used Tommy Bahama Gold Rum, syrup made from strawberry, Szechuan pepper and Tonka beans, lime juice, tarragon and strawberry puree, and Peychaud bitters.

Tarragon Gin Fizz (Justin Guthrie, Central Michel Richard): Once I got past the bright, definitely-not-found-in-nature green color (which also evoked thoughts of shooters passed around in test tubes at college bars), I loved this drink--totally reminded me of my herb garden. Justin blended Hendrick's gin infused with tarragon, lemon juice, and Natakhari Tarragon soda.

Puffin du Velay (Rico Wisner, Poste Modern Brasserie): Rico used Vervaine du Velay, a liqueur similar to Chartreuse with some anise flavor, in this drink, as well as Reyka vodka, fresh sour mix with agave syrup, and sparkling wine. It was interesting...but I think the Vervaine is an acquired taste, and I'm not there yet.

Dinner Cocktails and Menu:

1st course:
Todd Thrasher of PX and Restaurant Eve was up first. His drink, The Dr. Who, used Machu Pisco, Celery and Jicama soda, and homemade celery bitters (which I tried on a spoon by themselves--so tasty.) The Pisco gave the drink a definitive kick, but the celery tamed it a bit. It was paired with Chilled Seafood and Hearts of Palm Cocktail--a gazpacho-like creation with fresh mussels and other seafood. A big old dish of this, some crusty bread, and a glass of Sauvignon Blanc would be a fantastic summer dinner.

2nd course:
Komi's Derek Brown made my other favorite cocktail of the evening. Very labor-intensive, the lovely Hibiscus Fizz contained Finlandia Vodka infused with hibiscus/rose hips/orange peel, Yuzu and lemon juices, topped with soda. It was bright pink, but did not taste at all frou frou. The second course was Sake Glazed Salmon with Pickled Honshimenji Mushrooms, Local Asparagus and Tamari-Radish Emulsion. The salmon's sweet glaze partnered incredibly with the drink.

3rd course:
Gina Chersevani of EatBar really pushed for this event to happen. She has garnered quite a legion of cocktail fans, as evidenced by the amount of clapping and cheering when her name was announced. Smoky, savory and funky (in a good way), her Cereza la Fuma contained Milagro Silver Tequila, Lillet Rouge, Cherrywood smoked white pepper meringuem(foam), agave nectar, lime juice, and was topped with fleur de sel. Chef paired it with Braised Shenandoah Lamb with Spring Pea-Tarragon Risotto and Grilled Ramps. The lamb was so tender and flavorful, it tasted like braised beef to me.

4th course:
Proof's own Sebastian Zutant took care of the drinks for the cheese course--and he also took the award for the evening's longest cocktail name. Medicine Man (aka Sebby Potter and the Teeming Cauldron of Booze) had Woodford Reserve Bourbon, Blandy's Madeira, Lillet Rouge, Lustau East India Sherry, Fee Brothers whiskey bitters, and it was topped with a prune soaked in Armagnac and Port. Dark red, aromatic and perfect with cheese and accoutrements, the Medicine Man was actually served from Zutant's own cauldron.

5th course:
Tom Brown from wine bar Cork finished the evening with the Truffled Amaro Flip. We all stood behind the bar, shaking Korbel brandy, Ramazzotti Amaro, eggs, lemon juice, truffle oil and Jerry Thomas Decanter bitters. It looked like a frothy Bailey's, but tasted anything but. The truffle oil added just a hint of complexity, but not the overwhelming, almost stinky scent that truffles sometimes can (thankfully...) It was a nice partner for the dessert course, Strawberry and Pink Peppercorn Shortcake with Creme Fraiche and Honey Lavender Ice Cream.

Whew. That was quite an entry. But so delicious to relive. :-)

Head here for more info on Proof. And here for info about the museum.

Monday, May 12, 2008

World Cocktail Week--Gotta Celebrate!

I'll be headed out to Proof tonight to celebrate World Cocktail Week, sponsored by The Museum of the American Cocktail. Many of the Washington area’s premier mixologists will be working together for the first time to whip up inventive drinks to pair with each of the dinner's courses. Participating mixologists include Adam Bernbach of Bar Pilar, Derek Brown of Komi, Tom Brown of Cork, Gina Chersevani of EatBar, Justin Guthrie of Central, John Hogan of Hudson, Todd Thrasher of Restaurant Eve, Chantal Tseng of Tabard Inn, Rico Wisdnor of Poste, and Sebastian Zutant of Proof.

Executive Chef Haidar Karoum will prepare a five-course tasting menu that will be paired with five additional specialty cocktails.

Tickets are $135 each, but the event is now sold out. I'll definitely be posting about this tomorrow--I've had the pleasure of meeting and/or interviewing most of the mixologists on the list for various articles, and I look forward to witnessing some of their bar magic. Pairing cocktails, rather than wine, with each of the courses will be a refreshing change of pace.

Small Plates and Lots of Wine

On Saturday night, I did a wine tasting in PA for a dinner club that my sister-in-law and brother-in-law belong to. It was a fantastic evening! My SIL paired the wines I selected with some amazing small plates. Here was the rundown:

* NV Zardetto Prosecco: Boiled new red potato halves with créme frâiche topped with salmon and caviar.

*2007 Kim Crawford New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc: Mixed baby greens salad with a light vinaigrette and goat cheese.

* 2006 Trimbach Alsatian Riesling: Gorgonzola Stuffed Shrimp - jumbo shrimp butterflied, marinated, grilled & stuffed with a gorgonzola/cream cheese mixture and wrapped with proscuitto.

* 2006 Mauro Sebaste, S. Rosalia Dolceetto D'Alba: Fresh cheese ravioli with grilled eggplant caponata.

*2006 Chalone Vineyard Monterey Pinot Noir: Mushroom tartlets in phyllo.

* Broquel Malbec: Grilled steak & portobellas with parmesan shavings over radicchio.

* 1994 Dow Vintage Port: Silton cheesecake with rhubarb compote.

Friday, May 09, 2008

Toast to Mom

Sharing a timely press release I received this week...

Join winemaker Erik Olsen as Clos du Bois raises funds and awareness for the eight million mothers and daughters living with heart disease. For every e-card sent from http://www.toasttomom.com/, Clos du Bois will donate $1 to WomenHeart. The goal is to raise $25,000 and touch thousands of hearts this May!

A wonderful online resource for celebrating Mother’s Day on May 11th and National Women’s Health Week, May 11th - 17th, consumers can also download heart healthy Mother’s Day recipes and wine pairing ideas, purchase a heartfelt gift basket for mom and enter to win a fabulous getaway for two to Sonoma wine country.

Heart's Delight Wine Tasting and Auction

If you are a wine lover who feels being generous this weekend for a really worthy cause, then I urge you to head out to DC's Heart's Delight Wine Tasting and Auction.

I'm proud to have served this year on the Auction Committee. Over the past eight years, Heart's Delight has grown to become one of the nation’s premier food and wine events - it provides the ideal combination of great food and wine while raising the much-needed funding to support the mission of the American Heart Association. Since Heart’s Delight began in 1999, we have raised $6 million dollars for the fight against heart disease and stroke.

Saturday’s schedule includes a seated tasting of the 2005 vintage from 20 classed-growth Bordeaux châteaux, with the winemakers or winery owners presenting their wines. This will be followed by a silent auction and walk-around tasting, with chefs from across the country offering samples of their cuisine. Saturday evening ends with a live auction that includes several luxury lots of rare wines and trips to wine regions around the world.

Admission to Saturday’s seated tasting and the evening reception and auction is $500 a person ($250 is tax deductible), and admission to the evening alone is $250 ($125 deductible). But this is an opportunity to taste some top wines from a fantastic vintage while supporting a very worthy cause.

For more information and to order tickets, check out their website.

Thursday, May 08, 2008

A German white wine from South Africa at an Indian restaurant...

Last evening, I attended a "Mad About Mangoes" press dinner at Rasika, where all the drinks and dishes contained the fragrant Indian mango. Last year was the first for the luscious fruit to be imported into the U.S. Its short growing season, coupled with the time-consuming importation process, makes it elusive, expensive, and that much more delicious.

Chef Vikram Sunderam crafted many amazing mango-inspired dishes. My favorites were the mango shrimp with ginger, coriander and mint chutney; and the Aam Murgh, a chicken curry of sorts with mango, cashew nuts and cardamom. The mango and saffron kulfi--Indian version of ice cream--was also tropical and creamy.

Several wines were paired with the dishes, and my favorite was a 2007 Cederberg Bukettraube--the first time I have ever tried this grape. This white varietal is all but extinct, with a really small amount of plantings left in the world. Originally a German grape, it was then brought to South Africa (the origin of the wine I had), and its short shelf life means that it's rarely exported long distances. I absolutely loved it. Similar in acidity to a Sauvignon Blanc, it had some honey and peach notes, and then hit me with flavors of passion fruit and papaya--which explains why it paired so well with the mango dishes.

Not sure where I can get this rare wine, but it, like the Indian mango, is definitely worth the search.

Tuesday, May 06, 2008

Yes Virginia, there is a Vodka


While many people believe that most if not all vodkas are made from potatoes, that's really not the case. Many are made from grains (sometimes cheap ones meant for fuel and other industrial purposes), after which the liquid is filtered and bottled, and sold as vodka.

Cirrus Vodka, which comes out of Richmond, Virginia, is different. It's produced from high-quality potatoes, in a pot-still, in small batches. What do the potatoes do? Well, they generally leave you with a smoother, creamier mouthfeel. The proof is in the various awards it's garnered, including a gold medal at the 2006 San Francisco World Spirits Competition.

I got my hands on a bottle last week, and it certainly has character--with some lemon and vanilla notes, and just a touch of sweetness. Anybody who reads this blog knows that I tend to prefer gin to vodka, and when I do drink vodka, I like it to be a bit more neutral-tasting. But for the connoisseur who is looking for more flavor, this bottle is a great choice.

Cirrus is distributed in VA, DC, TN and soon to be in SC, IL and WV. In Northern VA you can find Cirrus at all of the Clyde's locations, the Inn at Little Washington, and Siberia, among others.

For more info, check out Cirrus Vodka's website.

Thursday, May 01, 2008

Let It Breathe

I had a lot of fun recently reviewing wine aerators for the May/June issue of Imbibe. My Christmas gift Vinturi fared well, although it does have its drawbacks. My pick for most user-friendly and utilitarian went to the Nuance Wine Finer. You can check out page 24 of the most recent issue, or read the article here.

Wednesday, April 30, 2008

Gold POP


Pommery broke all the rules when they released POP in miniature, 187 ml bottles. The latest edition to the Pommery family comes in a tricked-out, stylish bottle with a gold sheen. The glam bottle also happens to hold the world's first vintage-dated Champagne in a mini bottle. Precious and rare as gold, the winery released just 2,000 bottles of this 2002 vintage.

I managed to get my hands on one of the mini-bottles. It's sleek, stylish and gorgeous. Oh, and what's inside inside bad either. The nose had a subtle yeastiness, along with some lemon. I'd call it medium-bodied, and it had some creamy apple notes and finished clean. A lovely Champagne--no mere hype for the upscale nightclub set.

You can purchase Gold POP at Sherry Lehmann in NYC, or online at http://www.sherry-lehmann.com/. Gold POP retails for $18.95

Tuesday, April 29, 2008

Gingered Inspiration...


I finally got my hands on a bottle of Domaine de Canton, the French liqueur crafted with Cognac that's infused with baby ginger. I read a lot about it, and my hopes were high (I even fell in love with the bamboo-inspired bottle design.)

It doesn't disappoint. I absolutely adore ginger, and the ginger taste in this bottle is fresh and bitey. I can't wait to try the Canton 75--made with one part Domaine de Canton, topped with three parts of Champagne and a dash of lemon bitters. The bubbles will bring the incredible aromatics right up to my nose.

It's such a unique, striking flavor that I also look forward to experimenting. I still have my bottle of Castries Peanut Rum cream (from St. Lucia) in the fridge. Once I plant my herb garden and my Thai basil sprouts up, I'll think I'll try muddling some Thai basil, and adding it to DdC and Castries--kind of like peanut satay in a glass...
Check the website for availability in your area--it's kind of hard to find in some places, but worth looking for.

Monday, April 28, 2008

I've found this summer's "house cocktail"

A bit easier to make than Gina Chersevani's Gnome's Water which I mentioned a month or so ago, the Gordon's Cup also has the refreshing notes of lime and cucumber. It's on page 46 of the April issue of Bon Appetit, and it's served at LA's Comme Ca:

Gordon's Cup:
1 serving

2/3 of 1 small lime, cut into 6 wedges
2 1/2 inch thick rounds of peeled cucumber
1/4 cup gin (I used the cucumber- and rose-scented Hendrick's)
1 1/2 tablespoons simple syrup
1 cup cracked ice
Pinch of sea salt

Place lime and cucumber in cocktail shaker; mash with muddler or wooden spoon until lime is juiced and cucumber is pulpy. Add gin and simple syrup, then ice. Cover; shake vigorously 3 times. Pour contents of shaker into rocks glass. Sprinkle with salt.


***Once my lavender is in bloom, I'll make a lavender-infused syrup, like Gina does for her Gnome's Water. And I think this drink would also be great topped with club soda.

Thursday, April 24, 2008

Gin with a bite

I have to admit--I was drawn to G-Vine gin at first because of the really cool bottle, which I thought would look great on my bar. I figured from the variegated green on the bottle that the gin would have an overt limey, citrusy flavor. But I was surprised when I tasted it to find that for me, the overlying flavor was a licorice bite (the full list of botanicals is listed on the underside of the back label, visible through the front of the bottle.)

With Fever Tree tonic (I'll be reviewing FT's line of mixers soon, and then I'll close the book--at least for awhile--on tonic, this French gin distilled from grapes made a mean G&T on warm spring evening.

Check here for more info on G-Vine. Bottoms up!

Wednesday, April 23, 2008

A Washington Pinot Gris


While Pinot Grigio and Pinot Gris are the same grape, the resulting wines can be very different depending on region, climate and winemaking styles.


Italian Pinot Grigio tends to be light in style, with crisp lemon and apple notes, and a short finish. On the other end of the scale are the richer, rounder, more unctuous Pinot Gris offerings from Alsace--lower in acidity and fuller in body.


Chateau Ste Michelle's 2007 Pinot Gris from the Columbia Valley falls right in the middle. It has aromas of orange peel, and flavors of pear, honeysuckle and spice. 8% Viognier added to the blend lends floral notes and a rounder mouthfeel. It's great with shellfish and cream-based dishes, and I even enjoyed it with roast pork.

Sunday, April 20, 2008

"On the Dot"


I recently got my hands on a bottle of Punkt Genau Gruner Veltliner, imported by Haus Alpenz (who also imports the intriguing, heady-scented Creme de Violette I reviewed a week or so ago.)

The crispness and whiff of white pepper in the often under-appreciated Gruner Veltliner is very appealing to me, but I had never had (or even heard of) a sparkling version. Punkt Genau means "on the dot", and this wine is made from grapes exclusive to Austria's Weinviertel region.

The lack of a cork and wire cage clued me in to the fact that the wine was not fully sparkling (it's actually enclosed with a screw cap.) The effervescence is reminiscent of a really fizzy Vouvray or Vinho Verde, so we sipped it from white wine glasses.

The wine tasted of crisp apples, with a light body. I didn't get any of the typical GV white pepper notes, but maybe the fizz overpowered them. It was definitely enjoyable with the seared tuna we had for dinner that night.

For more info on purchasing information, check out Haus Alpenz's website.

Friday, April 18, 2008

"Listen to the Ice"

I had a lovely time last evening at PX, the Alexandria speakeasy that is basically the playground for mixologist Todd Thrasher's amazingly complex concoctions.

Not to give away too many of the destination's secrets, but for those of you unfamiliar with PX, the lounge really does evoke the feeling of a speakeasy. There is no sign--patrons know it's open when the skull and crossbones flag that flies over Eamonn's fish and chips restaurant on the first floor (also owned by Cathal Armstrong) is out, and when the single blue light bulb is lit. Ring the doorbell, and the hostess slides the peephole door. A password isn't needed, but a reservation is suggested--especially on busy weekend evenings. Once inside, it definitely feels like you've stepped back into another time--crystal chandeliers hang over the bars and tables, dark blue velvet sofas fill one room, and the walls are made with gorgeous dark stained wood.

PX is small by design--only holding 30-35 people, so conversation, and finding a place to sit, is easy. It's meant to be a destination for a cocktail or two before or after dinner--reservations are for 2 hour blocks, maximum.

Crafting excellent cocktails take time, and a seat at the bar is a show in itself, and makes the time fly by. A peak at the back bar shows a shelf of high-end liquors, as well as bottles and jars labeled with masking tape. PX has 11 housemade bitters and lots of infused syrups. Heck, even the tonic and ginger ale are homemade. The place is 1/2 bar, 1/4 kitchen and 1/4 chemistry lab.

I started with a "Boris Karloff," with housemade elderflower liqueur (St. Germain isn't available in Virginia...), Plymouth gin and kiffir lime. This drink is a fizz, so it also contained egg white to make it frothy. It was aromatic and refreshing.

We also tried the "China Rose", with house-infused vanilla Cruzan rum, hibiscus bitters and dried hibiscus flowers. Bright red and served in a hurricane-style glass, it was deceptively less sweet than I thought it would be. And really, really good.

"The Big O" mixed Hendricks gin, Cointreau, orange bitters, orange syrup and lime juice--a perfectly balanced warm weather sipper.

PX's menu changes frequently, and mix master Thrasher is a staunch supporter of only using ingredients in season. For more information about PX, go to Eamonn's website, and click on the PX logo in the bottom right-hand corner.

Oh, and "listen to the ice" is PX's mantra--order, sit back, relax, let the magical mixing begin, and listen to the ice.

Thursday, April 17, 2008

Wine dinner with Schramsberg

If you love Schramsberg sparkling wines as much as me, then you'll be as stoked as I was to hear about the upcoming dinner at Cafe Atlantico that pairs the restaurant's dishes with Schramsberg's sparklers:

On the evening of Tuesday, May 20th, Café Atlantico and sommelier Jill Zimorski will welcome Schramsberg Vineyards and Cellars’ Hugh Davies for an exclusive wine dinner showcasing their celebrated sparkling wines. Guests of this exclusive wine dinner will be treated to a selection of bubbly from the Calistoga-based vineyard paired with an innovative four-course menu by Chef Katsuya Fukushima. Space is limited and reservations are required. The dinner is priced at $125 per person, excluding including tax and gratuity. (A complete menu is posted below.) To reserve guests should call Café Atlantico at (202) 393-0812.

Passed Greeting
Oyster w/ Caviar, Marcona Almond
Schramsberg Blanc de Blancs

1st Course
Unagi, Pineapple, Pinenuts, Cucumber, Yuzu
J. Schram Brut Reserve

2nd Course
Octopus, Strawberries, Greek Yogurt
Schramsberg Brut Rose

3rd course
Duck, Foie, Gingerbread, Kumquat, Sesame
Schramsberg Reserve

Dessert
Apples and Champagne
Schramsberg Cremant

Wednesday, April 16, 2008

Better with Bitters

Lately, I've really been getting into bitters--not just Angostura and Peychaud's, but the myriad of flavored ones out there, from peach, to orange, lemon and grapefruit. It's amazing what just a drop or two can do to add complexity to a cocktail, making it taste more like something you got at your favorite bar or restaurant, and less like something you whipped up at home.

Stirrings' blood orange bitters is enjoyably bitter, with a nice flavor of orange peel and a touch of sweet spiciness. Since I love Campari, and its tongue-numbing bitterness, this blood orange bitter seemed almost mild to me, like I could also drink it with soda over ice. So I wanted to find a cocktail recipe that used a decent amount of it, not just a dash like so many recipes call for.

A check of Cocktail DB's website (a great online reference, by the way), gave me the Bluejacket:


Bluejacket:
1.5 oz. dry gin
3/4 oz. Blue Curacao
3/4 oz. orange bitters (the recipe called for Gordon's, but we used the Stirrings Blood Orange Bitters)

Shake with ice, serve in a cocktail glass.


The bitters countered the Curacao's overt sweetness, and both citrus flavors married well with the gin. The color was cool, too--a true turquoise, reminiscent of the gorgeous waters you sometimes find in the Caribbean. (The bitters darkened the Curacao's blue a bit).

For more info about Stirrings bitters, go to their website.


Tuesday, April 15, 2008

Continuing quest for the perfect G&T...


So, last year, I posted about how I started buying tonic water in small glass bottles, rather than the larger plastic ones, for my G&Ts. The tonic in the former tastes fizzier, and stays fresher longer. However, I've always thought that mass-produced tonic water is way too sweet, and to my delight, I've recently discovered through a colleague that I'm not alone in that thinking...

Q Tonic is made with Peruvian quinine and Mexican agave, which adds a subtle sweetness, rather than the syrupy flavor that high fructose corn syrup-based tonics can, Q tonic gives the soda--and the liquor--equal billing. It's bitey, sharp and refreshing.

I sampled Q Tonic with different gins, and it makes a huge difference in my favorite cocktail. Granted, the price is steeper than Schwepp's or Canada Dry (it's sold in a 4 pack of single sized bottles for about $6), but it's definitely worth it.

Soon I'll post about 2 other tonic options...just in spring and summer--perfect G&T weather, in my opinion.
In the DC area, you can get Q Tonic at Dean and Deluca in Georgetown, and (soon) at MOM's Organic Markets.

Monday, April 14, 2008

A new liquid dessert


The other night, I sampled Castries Cream liqueur. Made in St. Lucia, Castries Cream is a peanut-based rum (akin to a peanutty version of Bailey's...) It comes in a cool bottle that resembles a peanut in a shell, and right now is available in the mid-Atlantic.

We perused the website for recipes, and finally settled on one that included Castries and coconut rum. We thought it would be a nice combo, but honestly, it didn't work that well. But we did agree that anything chocolate or banana flavored would be a good match, so next time we'll whip up one of the recipes that includes vanilla vodka, or banana or chocolate liqueur. If you are really a fan of peanuts or peanut butter, Castries would also be nice to sip by itself, over ice. I would imagine that it could make a mean parfait, too, with vanilla ice cream and chocolate syrup or hot fudge.

For more info about Castries, check out http://www.castriescream.com/.

Wednesday, April 09, 2008

A Spritzy Gewurz

At a client's tasting this past week on wines from Sonoma, I selected an Adler Fels Sonoma Gewurztraminer for one of the bottles. I really dig Gewurz, and I'm always on the lookout for good domestic producers.

I was really surprised to uncork it and see lots of spritzy bubbles--almost foam--coming to the top of the bottle. The foam continued when I poured it, so to me it seemed in appearance like a Vinho Verde.

The wine was off-dry, with TONS of lychees. Not too much spice, but also some attractive peach and tropical fruit flavors.

If this is your thing--and I think it can be nice for the warmer weather, Adler Fels Sonoma Gewurztraminer is available for around 12 bucks.

Tuesday, April 08, 2008

Creme de Violette


After regarding the Spirits column in The Washington Post last week that talked about hard to find liquors, I had to find a bottle of Creme de Violette. The DC area distributor, Le Droit Brands, came through for me, and I got my hands on the dark purple potion yesterday.

Last night, I made the classic Blue Moon cocktail:

2 oz. dry gin
1/2 oz. fresh lemon juice
1/2 oz. creme de violette

Shake with ice and strain

When the CdV is diluted that much, it takes on a cool blue hue. The drink had a whiff of floral, but it wasn't overwhelming, and I actually could have added a bit more CdV.

Next I want to try it topped with sparkling wine. We did that this past weekend with St. Germain Elderflower Liquor, and it was lovely.

For more info about Creme de Violete, visit Alpenz' website.

Thursday, April 03, 2008

Santorini white

DC's Zaytinya is currently celebrating Greek Easter by offering special menus and dishes traditional to the holiday. Last evening, I attended a media kickoff dinner, where I sampled a lot of the dishes that will be featured during the Easter feast celebration. Rack of lamb and spring lamb were both flavorful, the latter served as tender as sliced filet mignon. A simple fresh Greek salad with chunks of feta was topped with a great, light vinaigrette, and sustainable halibut was moist and flavorful. Fingerling potatoes were crisp, with just the right amount of salt and fresh parsley. And dessert--orange cake topped with ice cream, blood orange and pistachio, ended the meal with a right touch of sweetness.

We had several wines to pair with the courses. The highlight for me was a Argyros Estate 05 from the Greek island of Santorini. Made from a blend of Asyrtiko, Aidáni Aspro and Athíri, the wine was light gold, and had a spritz similar to that of a Vinho Verde. Zesty lime notes were balanced by a bit of an attractive bitterness on the finish, and the crispness paired well with the halibut and Greek salad.

For more info on Zaytinya's Greek Easter festival, go to their website.

Wednesday, April 02, 2008

Two local grapes shine

Back in February, I attended the Virginia Wine Showcase in Chantilly, the first state wine festival indoors. While I was there, I tasted a bunch of VA Viogniers and Nortons--two of the grapes that shine in VA wine, in my opinion. I reported my findings for The Tasting Panel, and you can read the article here.

Tuesday, April 01, 2008

Virginia Wine Article

Looking to take a wine-related day trip in Virginia this spring? Check out my Radar Weekender article in this month's issue of Modern Luxury DC for some ideas, including Barboursville Vineyards in Charlottesville, Loudoun County's Fabbioli Cellars, and the Monticello Wine and Food Festival.

Monday, March 31, 2008

A business school project turns liquid


Friends and fellow Cornell business school students Scott Krahn and David Hughes decided to tackle the gin game during their third-year entrepreneurship class. Their intended task? To create a theoretical gin that appealed to their demographic. In a nutshell, a gin for the vodka drinker: aromatic, yet approachable.

The fruits of their labor were so successful that they took their project out of the classroom, and into the distillery. DH Krahn Gin, released this past fall, contains an exotic, heady list of aromatics, including Italian juniper berries, Moroccan coriander seed, Thai ginger root, and citrus peels from California.

I tried DH Krahn gin this weekend, and loved it. The aromatics are definitely a bit different than my other preferred gins--I think the Thai ginger really gives it a unique kick. It makes a delish G&T, but the press kit I received also contained some other great cocktails to try. This one was our favorite:

Elderflower Collins
2 oz. DH Krahn gin
3/4 oz. fresh lemon juice
1/2 oz. simple syrup
1/2 oz. Elderflower liqueur (St. Germain)
Club soda

Combine first four ingredients in a mixing glass, then add ice. Shake well, then strain over fresh ice into a Collins glass. Top with club soda.

**We actually thought it would have been even tastier without the club soda, strained into a martini glass. The soda diluted the gin and elderflower taste a bit. But it was still really refreshing.

For more info, go to DH Krahn's website.

Thursday, March 27, 2008

South African wine class

If Pinotage and Steen are unfamiliar to you, then consider coming out to Ashburn's WineSmith's South African wines class this Sunday evening. I'll be teaching the class, and we'll be tasting some of the stellar offerings coming out of this breathtaking country. For more info, check out the following, or go to WineSmith's website:

March Wine Classes Special Interest Class:
South African Wines
Sunday, March 30th, 5:00 - 6:15 PM
Learn more about the exciting wines coming from South Africa, including Pinotage, Cape Blends, and Chenin Blanc. All classes are $30 per person; advance payment required. Call (703) 729-2970 to RSVP.

Dinner with a Washington star

I attended a wine dinner last evening at Mrs. K's Tollhouse in Silver Spring, where Chateau Ste Michelle's wines were paired with the chef's delicious creations. I had the pleasure of sitting at the table with CSM's Head Winemaker Bob Bertheau, who has been in charge of making all of the winery's still wines (Domaine Ste. Michelle's sparkling wines are in a separate divsion) for the past five years. I've always been a huge fan of this winery, and even got the chance to tour and taste at the breathtaking chateau a few years ago while on a trip to Seattle, so it was a huge thrill for me to hear Bob's stories about the hows and whys of making some of these incredible wines. I've always been amazed about how, especially with their red wines, the winery strikes that delicate balance of Old World restraint and New World fruit, at a price point that allows you to elevate even a weeknight dinner, or takeout. Many of their bottles simply taste a lot pricier than they are.

The pairings last night were stellar. Grilled shrimp with Thai peanut sauce was paired with the complex, rich 2006 Eroica Riesling, while the subtle, spicy notes and great fruit of the 2006 Canoe Ridge Estate Chardonnay played well with creamy lobster bouchee. The two main entrees were game--the first a tender, succulent ostrich with Cabernet reduction (the chef used the same wine we sipped with the course--2005 Indian Wells Cabernet Sauvignon); followed by pheasant breast with mushrooms and Merlot sauce (enjoyed with 2005 Canoe Ridge Estate Merlot). Bob pointed out that in WA, Merlot often has more structure than Cabernet--which is typically the reverse in other areas of the world where the two grapes are grown side by side.

Bob selected the botrytized Ethos Late Harvest Riesling to sip with apple foster and vanilla ice cream for dessert--and the consensus at my table was that this was the best pairing of the evening. The winery rarely makes ice wine, since the WA climate isn't always cooperative, but Bob said he prefers the complexity of this wine anyway--there was a lot going on in the nose, including a hint of the petrol that you often get in an aged German Riesling, which here manifested itself as a vinyl shower curtain. The flavor was rich honey and pear, though. Really beautiful.

Mrs. K's often offers wine dinners. For more information, visit their website. And for more info on CSM wine, go to http://www.ste-michelle.com/.

Wednesday, March 26, 2008

Happy Birthday Jaleo!

Hard to believe, but Jose Andres' Jaleo, which pretty much introduced the notion of tapas and small plates to DC palates and beyond, is celebrating its 15th anniversary in April. Lots of cool events are planned surrounding the birthday, including a wine and tapas pairing:

A highlight of the celebration, 15 Tastes of Spain is an exclusive wine tasting being held on April 28th at 6:30 PM at Jaleo, located at 480 7th Street, NW. Inspired by the 15th anniversary, Jaleo’s culinary team has created a unique tasting of eight exceptional wines with seven of Jaleo’s premiere tapas.

José Andrés and Rob Wilder will be on hand to welcome guests to this intimate event and THINKfoodGROUP’s Antoni Yelamos will share the unique stories behind the premium wines that will be featured, including Vinicola Hidalgo Amontillado Viejo sherry, 2003 Torres Milmanda (Penedes), 1995 Cune Viña Real Gran Reserva (Rioja) and 1999 Costers del Siurana Dolc de L'Obac (Priorat).

After the tasting, attendees will be treated to samples of Jamon Iberico, yogurt sperification, erizo with piparrana, braised veal cheeks, artisanal Spanish cheeses and more. Space is limited for this festive event and participation is priced at $75 per person (tax and gratuity not included). Guests should call (202) 628-7949 to reserve.

For more info, check out Jaleo's website.

Monday, March 24, 2008

Gnome's Water

A few weeks ago, while researching cocktails for an article I'm working on, I got to taste through Gina Chersevani's liquid creations at EatBar (I love my job...) Everything she does is inventive, cool and often unexpected, but the best libation I tasted that night, in my humble opinion, was her Gnome's Water. She combines cucumber and rose-scented Hendrick's Gin with lavender, cucumber water and fresh lime, and the resulting sipper is irresistibly refreshing. I can see myself drinking this all summer long...and it would go perfectly with oysters or clams on the half shell.

To check out Gina's masterpieces for yourself, head to EatBar in Arlington.

Tuesday, March 18, 2008

A light, Loire red

As the weather starts to get warmer, my wine tastes change a bit. I start to gravitate towards zingy whites, sometimes with a bit of spritz (like Vinho Verde...) and I look for reds that won't feel or taste too heavy. Some obvious choices are (some) Pinot Noirs, as well as Beaujolais and Barbera. But don't overlook the Loire Valley...

Chinon is made from the Cabernet Franc grape, and in the Loire, it's usually done in a lovely, lighter style. Domaine Semellerie Chinon (available at Total Wine here in No. VA...) has great cherry and strawberry on the nose, along with a whiff of violets for which the grape is known. It's low in tannins, and would pair well with ham this Easter, or with your Passover lamb. We enjoyed it with roast chicken with lemon and rosemary, but it's very versatile, and I plan on sipping it a lot more this spring.

Monday, March 17, 2008

Beyond green beer...

Two other options to sip on March 17:

Boru Vodka, named for Brian Boru, the legendary king who united Ireland. Clean, yet with a nice bite on the finish. Enjoy it neat, in a martini, or in your favorite vodka-based cocktail.

Coole Swan Liqueur, an ultra-premium Bailey's-alternative made with chocolate, Madagascar vanilla, Irish cream and Irish whiskey.

Happy St. Patrick's Day!

Wednesday, March 12, 2008

Cheese + Dessert + Port = Heaven

When I dine out and it comes time for dessert, I'm often torn between the cheese plate, and something sweeter. A few weeks ago, while planning the menu and picking the wines for a client's wine tasting dinner, I noticed a fantastic marriage of cheese plate and dessert on the chef's menu selections: Stilton cheesecake. I knew I had to pick that, and I definitely wanted the classic wine pairing--Port--to sip alongside it.

The wine tasting was the other evening, and it was a stellar pairing that had everyone oohing and aahhing. The cheesecake had a shortbread crust, while the filling had just the right amount of Stilton flavor, along with some smooth cream cheese, and a touch of Port. The dessert was delicious and decadent without being that sweet.

I selected a 2003 Quinta de la Rosa Vintage Port to sip with this dessert. Although it's still very young and will no doubt get even smoother and more complex as the years go on, it was delish--with sweet dark berries and violet aromas, and some crispness on the finish that will no doubt get punchier over time. It was a great preview of what's to come from the bottle in the coming years.

The chef told me she discovered the cheesecake on the Epicurious website. I did a search, and found the recipe. She wasn't able to get rhubarb for the compote, so she substituted strawberry, which worked wonderfully.

Mmmmmm.....

Monday, March 10, 2008

Vermouth from Scratch

Mention Vermouth, and many people think of the ingredient that makes a martini (the dry style) or a Manhattan (the sweet style). However, beyond being a cocktail staple, Vermouth is lovely and aromatic to sip by itself as an aperitif.

Sebastian Zutant, wine director at DC's wine-centric Proof restaurant, makes his own Vermouth from scratch, and it's wonderful. I dined at Proof a few months back, sampled Zutant's homemade version, and then wrote an article about it for Wine Enthusiast. Here is the link.

Friday, March 07, 2008

X marks the spot


I recently tried the 2006 Lake County Sauvignon Blanc from X Winery, producer of the suggestive Syrahtica that I wrote about in a recent article for Wine Enthusiast (the picture on this post shows the 2007, which was just released.)


It had more of a lush mouthfeel than the more pungent, herbaceous bottles I typically go for (it undergoes partial malolactic fermentation), but it did have a decent line of crispness running through it. I got both grapefruit and tropical fruit notes, and some minerality on the finish. There were 784 cases produced, and it retails for $16.99.

For more info, visit X Winery's website.


Wednesday, March 05, 2008

Wine Class at WineSmith

Looking for a great way to spend an hour or so on Sunday? Then attend the Wine Fundamentals class I'll be teaching at WineSmith in Ashburn. Here are the details:

Wine Fundamentals Class
Sunday, March 9th
5:00 - 6:15 PM
Get the basic information you need to begin appreciating wine more fully!

For more information, call (703) 729-2970, or visit WineSmith's website.

Tuesday, March 04, 2008

The dimple in the glass just bugged me

I just finished writing an article that tested and analyzed wine aerators. Although people tend to use "decant" and "aerate" interchangeably, decanting actually refers to the process of removing sediment from red wines (mostly older bottles, but not always). Tannin from grapes’ skins, stems and seeds, as well as from any oak used in fermentation or ageing, drops out over time as fine, dark particles, rendering a wine smoother and mellower. Aerating, on the contrary, opens up young wines that feel too tannic, and whose aromas and flavors are either harsh or sharp, or imperceptible. I tested 6 aerators, and I'll post when the article is published.

This past weekend, at the DC Wine and Food Festival, I came across a few other tools that promised to "open up" wines and make them more mellow, flavorful and approachable. One of them was actually not an aerator, per se, but a glass whose design allows for aeration.

The Taste of Purple glass has a "dimple", which catches the wine as you swirl it around the glass, adding oxygen. (The glass basically looks as if you pressed your thumb into it when it was still hot and malleable.)

I did a before and after aroma test with the Taste of Purple, and the aroma was definitely more apparent after the wine was swirled around the dimpled glass. The rep then asked me what I thought about the product. From a usability standpoint, it couldn't have been easier--no extra tool to deal with, and the wine would (theoretically) get better as you sipped and swirled.

However, from an aesthetic standpoint, the dimple bugged me. Maybe it was the asymmetry of it all, or the fact that it appeared that my glass was deformed. But it bothered me to drink out of it, and I personally don't think it would be an attractive option for entertaining. (At $40 a pop, I can't see replacing my current glassware...) The company also offers a pair of stemless dimpled glasses for $36, and a funky decanter for $129 (it look like a giant, odd-shaped wineglass. Kind of a neat conversation piece, but it didn't pour so nicely--wine dripped down the side, even though the rep was careful when he poured it.)

I think I'll stick with my Vinturi, and keep my glassware. But hey, different strokes for different...wine lovers.

For more information, visit Taste of Purple's website.

Small Plates, Good Drinks

Last week I attended a media dinner announcing the relaunch of Charlie Chiang's in Shirlington, renamed Ping. Now, the interior is sleeker (dark red and black), and the menu has been revamped to include xiao die (small plates). We tasted through a lot of the popular dishes, including fantastic chicken gyoza, steamed pork buns (my favorite Dim Sum treat...) and scallops that were fried in tempura that had chopped up shrimp in the batter.

I was super excited because the white that was being poured all evening was from my favorite New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc producer--Spy Valley. Although I typically choose Gewurz or Riesling with Asian food (the aromatic wines are a great match for the fantastic aromas, spices and seasonings going on in so many Asian dishes), this bright white fit the bill for many of the dishes we tried.

The cocktail menu had some interesting choices as well, including a "martini" made with Grey Goose La Poire, elderflower liqueur (I've been hearing of this being used more and more in drinks...) and sparkling wine. And the cocktails were certainly potent, if that's your thing.

You can find out more about Ping on Charlie Chiang's website.

Monday, March 03, 2008

DC Food and Wine: Better Wines, More Space

I spent some time this weekend at the Washington, DC International Food and Wine Festival. (I actually did a live segment on Friday's 5 PM news on Channel 8 on behalf of the festival. Though there doesn't seem to be a link to it on their site. So hopefully you were lucky to catch my "brilliant" TV debut live...)


The exclusive Grand Cru on Friday evening opened up the weekend, where chefs from some of the area's top restaurants prepared and served small tastes of some of their signature dishes. (Rockfish seemed to be the unintentional theme, with at least three restaurants serving dishes that included this popular local fish. But they were all tasty, especially one from PS7.)


To wash down all of these tasty nibbles, lots of wines were poured, including some high-end offerings like Far Niente Chardonnay, Opus One and Insignia. I typically don't buy into $$$ wine hype, and I'm often more excited to drink a $10 bottle of Malbec that tastes like a $30 bottle, than I am to sip a $200 plus bottle of wine. But if someone else is pouring--and paying--then sure, why not.


The festival itself was held on Saturday and Sunday afternoon. I strolled around during the trade hours on Sunday, and stayed for a bit during the consumer hours. As promised, festival organizers sold less tickets to keep things less crowded. I'll recap over the next week or so some of the wines and food I sampled.

Thursday, February 28, 2008

Washington DC International Wine and Food Festival

I'll be heading out this weekend to the Washington DC International Wine and Food Festival to taste a bunch of wines and foods, and check out other vendors. My friends Jim Barker, President of the Washington Wine Academy, and Jay Youmans, Master of Wine and my instructor for my intermediate and advanced WSET courses, did a segment on DC's Fox 5 this morning about the festival, including a mini-lesson on Pinot Noir. Here is the link to their TV segment.

Check out the festival website for hours and ticket information.

Tuesday, February 26, 2008

Vin de Garage in Loudoun County

I headed out to Fabbioli Cellars in Leesburg this morning to do some research for an upcoming article. Owner Doug Fabbioli is knowledgeable without being at all pretentious, and a visit to his small winery is a refreshing change from other area wineries' focus on upscale tasting rooms and booking private parties.

I tasted through his offerings, and I was really impressed. Doug decided early on that he would tailor his vineyard and winery to only red wines, although he does offer two Chardonnays through a winery on which he's currently consulting.

The flagship wine, Tre Sorelle (named for his wife and her two sisters...) is a Bordeaux-blend with decent structure, and balanced fruit and oak. DC restaurants Mio and BlackSalt recently added it to their wine list. I tasted both the 2005 and 2006, and preferred the latter--I got a funky aroma on the 2005, which wasn't necessarily off-putting, but wasn't apparent on the more recent vintage.

I also really enjoyed the North Gate 2005 Merlot, made from grapes grown at Fabbioli and vinted by Mark and Vicki Fedor in Purcellville. It's done in an Old World style, with an elegant backbone and restrained fruit. A nice alternative to the barrage of jammy, lush Merlots that are out there.

The wine that surprised me the most was the Raspberry Merlot. Although I had been told it wasn't too, too sweet, I was sceptical. Turns out, it wasn't that sweet, and the tart raspberry flavor really came through to balance it out. I thought it would be nice topped with some Prosecco for a spring or summer cocktail.

The tasting room at Fabbioli is open Fridays and Saturdays. For more information, visit their website.

Friday, February 22, 2008

Oyamel's Tequila Festival

A few weeks ago, I dined at Jose Andres' Oyamel in DC while researching an article about rose-inspired drinks for Valentine's Day (Oyamel features a Prickly Pear Margarita with Rose Air Foam that is very unique, and very floral.) I was really impressed by their guacamole prepared tableside (with homemade chips that also tasted great by themselves), as well as all of the other dishes they brought out for me to sample--including several ceviches and salads that were simply fantastic.

I just received a press release about their upcoming tequila and mezcal festival, which will features flights of the celebrated liquors, dishes to pair with them, and specialty cocktails (some of which will be topped with the air/foam...) One of their most popular drinks is the margarita topped with "Salt Air", rather than rimmed in salt flakes. I tasted it, and it's an innovative take on the classic Margarita--and, you don't have to worry about those unsightly flakes of sea salt that inevitably get stuck on your upper lip...

Here is my info about the festival. You can also visit their website.

Washington, D.C., (February 20, 2008)— From March 18 to 30, José Andrés and the culinary team at Oyamel Cocina Mexicana led by Chef Joe Raffa are pleased to host a two-week celebration of Tequila & Mezcal and welcome special guests from premiere producers such as Siembra Azul, Del Maguey and Casa Noble. Oyamel’s celebration will feature a variety of tequila specials throughout the event in addition to tequila tastings at Oyamel’s Butterfly Bar and for the grand finale, a seven-course tequila-inspired dinner event.

During the festival, Oyamel celebrates the rich heritage of Mexico’s most famous spirits. Mezcal is the product of agave plants, a distilled alcoholic beverage unique to Mexico. Most mezcal is produced in the state of Oaxaca. Tequila is produced from one specific type of agave, the blue agave or agave tequilana, and production is centered in the town of Tequila in the state of Jalisco. All tequila is mezcal but not all mezcal is tequila.

During the Tequila & Mezcal Festival, Oyamel patrons will have the opportunity to sample some of the highest quality tequila and mezcal with special tastings and tequila flights priced from $20 to 30. These spirits will also be featured in the form of specialty cocktails and in special menu items. Tempting concoctions will include the popular Oyamel Margarita; a Chamoy Margarita, inspired by the famous Mexico City Chef Carmen “Titita” Ramirez of El Bajio and a Pineapple and Sage Margarita, all available for $9 to $12.

Featured specials prepared for the festival by Chef Raffa will include Ceviche de Salmon Curado en Mezcal, a ceviche of mezcal cured salmon; Sopa de Lima al Tequila, lime-tequila soup and Carne Asada de Buey con Salsa Borracha, grilled beef tenderloin with Borracha sauce and to satisfy the sweet tooth there is Café de Olla con espuma de chocolate blanco y tequila añejo, Café de Olla with White Chocolate Foam and Añejo Tequila and Margarita de fresa, a Strawberry Margarita. All dishes will be priced between $8 and $9.50.

Thursday, February 21, 2008

Heart's Delight Wine Auction

I'm proud to be serving this year on the Auction Committee for the Heart's Delight Wine Tasting and Auction, and I want to introduce you to this amazing event and give you a chance to donate to a really worthwhile cause...

Over the past eight years, Heart's Delight has grown to become one of the nation’s premier food and wine events - it provides the ideal combination of great food and wine while raising the much-needed funding to support the mission of the American Heart Association. Since Heart’s Delight began in 1999, we have raised $6 million dollars for the fight against heart disease and stroke.

Planning for the 2008 event this May 8-10 in DC is under way, and I would like to invite you to join us by donating to the auction. With an auction goal of $500,000, we welcome donations of wine, gift certificates, dinners, etc… Donations can be sent to the American Heart Association, 4301 North Fairfax Drive, Suite 530, Arlington, VA 22203. To ensure listing in the auction program, donation forms must be turned in by March 5, 2008. For your convenience, donation forms are available online at www.heartsdelightwineauction.org/auction/donate.cfm.

Please do not hesitate to contact me at trywine@gmail.com with any questions. To learn more about Heart’s Delight, visit http://www.heartsdelightwineauction.org/.

Wednesday, February 20, 2008

Wine Bar Coming to Tysons Corner

A friend of mine just gave me a heads up about this place. It's a chain, and the Tysons Corner location is scheduled to open this spring.

They seem to follow the same "user-friendly" approach that WineStyles and Best Cellars use to classify wines. But instead of using adjectives like "fruity," "soft" or "earthy," they use what they call Grape Classifications--ten numbers that define a wine category's color, body, flavors, etc. To be honest, the classifications seem to be a bit confusing, and there are wines that can fall into several categories. But The Grape looks like it could be a decent addition to wine-bar-starved Tysons Corner.

For more information, check out their website.

Beauty That's More Than (Grape)skin Deep


When Kristin Moses was searching for a streamlined approach to her skincare, she didn't need to look any further than her own backyard. Her father and step-mother own Kluge Estate in Charlottesville, VA, and Kristin, whose traded her career in beauty PR for life among the vines, believed in the power of grapeseed oil. Kristin's company, Skincare from the Vineyard, creates the fabulous Bordeaux Balm. Made from grapeseed oil and other essential oils, this all-purpose balm can be used on chapped lips, rough hands and feet, cuticles--you name it.

After chatting with her the other day, Kristin sent me a sample of Bordeaux Balm, and it's really a great product. Moisturizing without being greasy, it gave relief to my dry hands and feet. Kristin also recommends using it as a grooming aid on eyebrows and eyelashes, or to add a bit of "spotlight" to your face. She is planning to add other related products to her line in the future.

Bordeaux Balm retails for $12, is sold in select stores, and can also be purchased online. For more information, visit Kristin's website.

Monday, February 18, 2008

Terra Antiga Vinho Verde

It's not really the season for it, but I love the light freshness and bit of spritz of a nice Vinho Verde. I typically pick up a few bottles of the $3.99 offering that Trader Joe's sells out by the case whenever I shop there, but a few weeks ago, I visited WineSmith in Ashburn to pick up a few new bottles of wine from Portugal. (This a great local wine shop, by the way. Owner Neil Smith is very knowledgeable and friendly, and they offer tastings on the weekend as well as during the week.)

Neil recommended a 2006 Terra Antiga Vinho Verde (for a whopping $6.99 a bottle...), and we gave it a try the other evening. It was a bit fuller-bodied than my usual TJ VV wine, but was still light, relatively speaking. It didn't have as much spritz, and was a bit softer, but it was still incredibly easy drinking, with citrus and green apple notes--totally drinkable by itself, as well as with light fish and seafood dishes, soft cheeses, or pasta with cream sauce. In short, a wonderful, crisp white house wine to stock up on for the spring months.

Sunday, February 17, 2008

Leftover Bubbly Idea

By now, you have either finished or tossed any leftover sparkling wine from Valentine's Day (if you finished the whole bottle that evening--excellent!)

We enjoyed Virginia's Kluge Estates Blanc de Blancs on Heart's Day, and 2 flutes remained in the bottle. So we corked it with my "Champagne saver" stopper, which does wonders to keep the wine from going flat.

The next evening, rather than drink it by itself, we decided to make one of my favorite cocktails, a classy, refined elegant concoction that got its roots in New Orleans, and was named for a powerful French missile of the same name: the French 75.

I love this drink because it combines two of my favorite libations: sparkling wine and gin. Add a little lemon juice and superfine sugar, and it's sippable all by itself. It would also be a fantastic alternative to Muscadet or Sauvignon Blanc to drink with oysters or clams on the half shell, or with steamed lobster or crabs.

There is a French 75 recipe in my Commandeer's Palace cookbook, but I also found a bunch on the web which also sounded tasty. We used the following recipe that evening (and I honestly don't know from which site I pulled it.) The difference between this one and the one in my cookbook is that the latter has less lemon juice and sugar, so it's more potent. We used Hendrick's Gin, which gave it an exotic flavor due to the rose and cucumber notes in it. My husband and I both agreed, though, that next time we'd use a more traditional, "limey," juniper gin like Tanqueray or Seagram's.

Give it a try the next time you have some leftover bubbly. Enjoy!

French 75

1.5 oz. Gin
2 tsp. superfine sugar
1 1/2 oz. lemon juice
4 oz. Champagne or sparkling wine
Lemon or orange slice (optional)

Add ice to a cocktail shaker, and then add Gin, sugar and lemon juice. Shake until cold. Pour into Champagne flute, top with 4 oz. of chilled Champagne or sparkling wine. Garnish with a lemon or orange slice, if desired.

Thursday, February 14, 2008

Suggestive wines for Valentine's Day

If you want to open a bottle of wine tonight that will give your sweetheart a not-so-subtle hint about how you want the evening to end, then check out my article about Suggestive Sips for Valentine's Day.

Happy Valentine's Day!!!



Enjoy the day with a glass of virtual bubbles...

Tuesday, February 12, 2008

Waiter, there are roses in my glass...

Planning on getting a bouquet of roses for your sweetheart this Valentine's Day? Consider sipping them instead. Then read on...

Thanks so much to Josh Chambers at Hank's Oyster Bar and Steve Fowler at Oyamel in DC for helping me with this article. I really enjoyed the drink samples!!

Friday, February 08, 2008

Mention in The Hill

Thanks so much to Andrea Alford, reporter at The Hill, who included my business in a recent article she did about unique ideas for bachelorette parties.

I do a lot of tastings for bachelorette parties and bridal showers (in fact, I'm doing one this weekend...), and they are always well-received. It's a fun, unique start to the evening, especially if the bride is a wine lover, or maybe is going to France, Italy or California on her honeymoon.

You can read the entire article here.

The Tap Project

I received this press release this morning. It's such a great cause that I just had to pass it on:

Washington, D.C. (February 8, 2008) - Many of DC’s finest restaurants - including Central, DC Coast, Westend Bistro, 1789 Restaurant, Bebo, Sonoma Restaurant & Wine Bar, Black Salt, Seasons, Hank’s Oyster Bar & Marcel’s - will participate in the U.S. Fund for UNICEF’s nationwide Tap Project during the week of March 16, culminating on World Water Day, March 22.

The Tap Project, a grassroots initiative to provide clean water to children around the world, invites individuals to donate $1 for the tap water they normally get for free at participating restaurants. Lack of clean water is the second largest killer of children under five. This year the Tap Project goes nationwide, including Washington, DC. “The Tap Project brings to Washington, DC an incredibly simple concept to encourage restaurant patrons to help bring clean and safe water to the children of the world,” says Chef Robert Wiedmaier of Marcel’s and Brasserie Beck. “As a Tap Project volunteer, I am glad that so many restaurants agree it is our duty to use tap water—our single most bountiful natural resource—to reduce child mortality. We are counting on more DC restaurants to register and get on board.”

Last year, over 300 restaurants and thousands of their patrons in New York raised more than $100,000 to provide four million children with safe and clean water. Participants included high-profile media executives, chefs, and a host of celebrities. The Tap Project is the first of its kind—a national grassroots effort offering individuals and restaurants across the nation a simple and effective way to make a difference in a child’s life. More than one billion people do not have access to clean water or adequate sanitation, and one in five of them are children. Eighty percent of all illness and infant mortality is due to waterborne disease.

UNICEF works in more than 90 countries around the world to improve access to safe water and sanitation facilities in schools and communities and to promote safe hygiene practices. Over the past 15 years, more than a billion people gained access to improved drinking water and sanitation facilities. UNICEF's goal is to reduce by half the proportion of people without sustainable access to safe water and basic sanitation by 2015. This year, the Water & Sanitation Rotarian Action Group will join with thousands of volunteers across the U.S. to support the TAP Project and to raise awareness of this vital issue in their communities. A little goes a long way—for example, with $1 UNICEF can provide 40 liters of safe drinking water, which is enough to give one child safe drinking water for 40 days, or 40 children safe drinking water for one day.

To view the current list of registered DC area restaurants, visit www.tapproject.org/restaurants/info. Registration questions and volunteer opportunities for the TAP Project can be directed to co-City Coordinator, Polly Wiedmaier at TAP@marcelsdc.com.

Thursday, February 07, 2008

Virginia Wine Showcase

Just a reminder about the Virginia Wine Showcase happening this weekend at the Dulles Expo Center. I'll be doing a Wine Appreciation Basics seminar on Sunday at 11:30 AM.

Visit their website for more information.

Hope to see you there!!!

Wednesday, February 06, 2008

Miss Manners Tackles Champagne

I read the following letter to Miss Manners this morning in The Washington Post, and her response. I've never written to Miss Manners before, but I had to put in my 2 cents worth, so I emailed her (see the letter I emailed her at the end).

Dear Miss Manners:
At a lovely restaurant near our home, my husband and I ordered a bottle of champagne to enjoy with our meal. When the champagne was brought to the table to be opened, my husband smiled at me in anticipation, as we always love to hear the sound of a cork popping from a bottle of champagne -- one of the most celebratory sounds one can imagine, at least in our minds.

After watching the waitress uncork the bottle soundlessly, we joked that it must've been a "dud" and we were disappointed that it didn't pop, and explained our feelings about the joyfulness associated with the sound.

She smiled and agreed with us, but then told us that management of the restaurant was very specific in their instruction to the servers that champagne corks must exit the bottle utterly soundlessly, seemingly with the implication that the noise may disturb others.
While I realize that there may be some small extra emission of effervescence if one allows the cork to pop, it seems stoical to me that one would have to do so for reasons of etiquette. Could you clarify?
***
First please allow Miss Manners to ease the cork out of her eye from your last celebration.
Your waitress's theory notwithstanding, it is not the noise that is disturbing to others in the vicinity so much as a fast blow from a flying cork. And then there is the overflowing bottle, a look best saved for christening ships.

Your waitress opened the champagne bottle correctly, even if she didn't understand why. Popping the cork, however exciting you may find it, is considered a sign of ineptitude. Miss Manners suggests that you celebrate at home in the future, rather than among innocent strangers.

***
Dear Miss Manners,

I read with interest the letter from a woman who was disappointed when she and her husband went out to dinner, and the waitress didn't "pop" the cork loudly on their champagne bottle...

You were correct in stating that a flying cork can be dangerous to anyone seated nearby. However, as a wine educator and consultant, I can tell you that any sommelier worth his or her salt wouldn't think of loudly disengaging a Champagne cork for another reason: people drink and enjoy Champagne and sparkling wine for the bubbles. As dramatic as it may be to hear that loud "pop", and see the champagne flow out of the bubble, much of the carbon dioxide--the power behind those gorgeous bubbles--escapes as well, making the sparkling wine, well, less sparkling. Much of what makes fine Champagne is the size of the bubbles and how many of them there are (lots and lots of really tiny bubbles is desirable...)

If the couple really cared for the taste of Champagne, and not just the spectacle of it, it doesn't behoove them to complain about a soundless uncorking. On the contrary, they should be happy that they had a server who knew the correct procedure to allow them to truly enjoy the bottle.

Cheers-- Kelly