My article in Pennsylvania Wine and Spirits Quarterly

My article on South African Wines, "A Taste of the Exotic," is out in the Winter, 2007 edition of Pennsylvania Wine and Spirits Magazine. For those of you who live in PA, you can pick up a copy at any of the state's wine and spirits shops. If you live out of state, you can read the article on my website.

Warm temperatures threaten current ice wine harvest

Warm temperatures (and lack of those below freezing) are threatening the ice wine harvest in Germany, Canada and the Northeastern United States this year.

Ice wine depends on freezing temperatures. The grapes remain on the vine until they freeze, at which point they are crushed. The frozen water is removed by the crushing process, and what's left is pure, concentrated grape juice. The resulting wine has a clean, pure, "grapey" fruit flavor and wonderful acidity.

Because of the gamble of producing ice wine, as well as the small yields, the per bottle price is certainly not cheap. But in my mind, it's worth every penny. Ice wine is a beautiful example of what a sweet dessert wine should be, with wonderful fruit flavor and intense sweetness, yet bracing acidity.

Some producers, like California's Bonny Doon, "fake" the procedure, putting grapes in a freezer before crushing them. Their Vin de Glaciere (which means "wine from the freezer") is a delicious, less expensive alternative to some of the pricier, authentic ice wines (Inniskillin from Canada is one of my favorite "real" ice wines..)

Ice wine lovers may need to seek out wines like those from Bonny Doon, especially this year.

Barbera

Recently, I received a few bottles of wine from Tamas Estates winery. Located in CA's Livermore Valley, Tolosa is a Cal-Italian winery. Their varietals range from Pinot Grigio and Sangiovese to Barbera and Zinfandel.

We tried the Barbera with some sauteed, well-seasoned shrimp. I was taken aback by the level of delicious fresh berry fruit and light, supple tannins. There was also a hint of vanilla from the oak, but it was well integrated into the wine. The wine retails for $16.95, and is a blend of 80% Barbera and 20% Merlot, which explains a bit of the "jamminess" we tasted.

If you haven't given Barbera a try, and you like reds on the lighter side, seek it out. It's very food-friendly and can be a nice alternative to Merlot or Pinot Noir.

In the DC area Tamas is sold at Dupont Center Market, Super Fresh Food, Conneticut Ave Liquors, Freedom Market, DOwtown Spirits and Deli, Best Supermarket, Universal Liquor, Union Wine and Liquors. It's also served at Smith and Wollensky, La Chaumiere and Mantis.

PA Liquor Control Board gets a new chairman--but what does this mean for wine lovers?

I read on Friday that the PA liquor control board's chairman, Jonathan Newman, has resigned due to differences with Gov. Rendell. Newman, a wine afficionado, had been a big champion for wine sold in PA. The popular "Chairman's Selections" program offers wine lovers the chance to purchase premium wines at vastly discounted prices, and "premium" stores offered wine lovers lots of selection.

The new chairman, P.J. Stapleton, admitted that while he does enjoy a glass of wine from time to time, he does not share Newman's passion for wine. This has wine distributors a bit nervous, and they wonder how doing business in PA will change.

I am a Pennsylvania native, and I lived there for 22 years. It's no secret that the state run and controlled liquor and wine business is so limiting. In PA, you need to go to a "state store" to buy liquor and wine, and these stores are not open on Sundays. And, until the "premium" state stores starting popping up around the state, the selection of wine was unbelievably small. Now, at least, some stores exist that have much larger wine sections, including temperature controlled reserve and high-end wines. (Beer is a whole separate problem--you can only buy six packs in bars and six pack shops, with most beer being sold by the case at "beer distributors.")

I check the PA Wine and Spirits website from time to time, and I am blown away by the value of the Chairman's Selections--some of the bottles are discounted 50% or more. Critics of this program see it as a way for Napa and other locations to "dump" wine that is not selling, but I personally think a lot of great values can be had.

PA has made lots of strides, wine-wise, in the past ten years. (Although, arguably, things would be a LOT easier if you could just buy wine in grocery stores...and on Sundays.) Let's hope that the new chairman keeps focus on the grape, for the sake of wine lovers everywhere.

Restaurant Week DC

Looking to dine in one of DC's best restaurants at a reduced tab? Then make reservations at one of the restaurants participating in DC Restaurant Week from January 8-14.

You can get a 3 course prix fixe lunch for $20.07, or a 3 course prix fixe dinner for $30.07. Some restaurants are featuring their Restaurant Week menu choices on their website, and offer optional wine pairings for each of the courses.

However, tables are going fast (as my husband and I found out last night when trying to make reservations for next Friday for Colvin Run Tavern and a few other spots...), so log onto Open Table, or call the restaurants, to make reservations soon.

Bon Appetit!

VA Winemakers keeping their fingers crossed

Winemakers in Virginia are hoping that the Saxman bill, which would allow winemakers in the state to sell directly to stores and restaurants (unlike out of state wineries) will pass this year in the General Assembly.

The bill lost in last year's vote, but many attribute that to lack of lobbying from winemakers.

Clients often ask me what I think of VA wine, and if I buy and drink a lot of it. I typically respond that while I like to support the local wine economy, I think that a lot of the wine in the state is vastly overpriced, compared to the bottles I can get from South America or Australia, for example (cheaper price, better quality.) The Saxman bill would lower prices, since wineries won't have to go through distributors to sell their products. That might make me (and lots of other wine lovers in the state) more apt to buy VA wine on a regular basis.

Skincare for oenophiles

Just have to give a plug for some cool skincare products I received for Christmas. The Body Shop has a grapeseed line of cleanser, toner, moisturizer, night cream, etc. All of the products smell a bit like grapes, which is def. a great thing. And the stuff works.

Have a look

Happy New Year!

Hope you all enjoyed your New Year's Eve the other night. We entertained some family members, and served a French Bistro-type menu. Here were the dishes and accompanied wines:

Mussels steamed in white wine, butter, garlic and shallots
Rosemary olive oil bread
Sauvion Vouvray

Coquilles St. Jacques
Potato Galette
Baby spinach salad with bleu cheese vinaigrette
Mumm Napa Valley Cuvee M

Toast at midnight: Domaine St. Michelle Blancs de Blancs

Molten chocolate cake


I've always been a big fan of both the Cuvee M and any sparkling wines from Domaine St. Michelle. The Cuvee M has a good amount of Pinot Noir in the blend, giving it a gorgeous blush color (not QUITE as pink as a rose sparkling wine, though...) and lots of fresh peach aromas and flavors and nice complexity. And the DSM Blancs de Blancs is just a good all around, versatile sparkling wine.

Hope your holidays were spent with good friends and family, good conversation and fantastic food and wine. Here's a toast to a happy and healthy 2007. And keep checking my Blog for more wine tips, news, suggestions and advice.

Cheers!

A toast for Christmas

Wishing all of you a very Merry Christmas, and best wishes for a happy and healthy 2007. In honor of my Irish heritage, here is a toast for Christmas morning:

"May peace and plenty be the first to lift the latch on your door, and happiness be guided to your home by the candle of Christmas."

Hope you enjoy a wonderful day on Monday with good friends and family, good conversation, and good wine. Happy holidays, and thanks for your support in 2006!

Wine board game

I came across a board game that tests your wine knowledge--everything from recognizing labels from famous wineries, to identifying the wine inside of a bottle based on its shape. Bouquet, The Wine Game, touts itself as "not a matter of life and death, it is simply a question of red and white."

Created by Britt Backe, a certified Swedish sommelier, Bouquet became available in the United States in December of 2004. Apparently, both wine novices and experts alike will enjoy the game and be able to answer the questions. (There are 3 levels to all questions: amateur, professional and connnoisseur.)

I've never played the game, or seen it in person, but it sounds like it could be fun for a group of wine loving friends or wine club members to play. The website lists retailers all around the U.S. by state--looks like UnWined in Alexandria is the only place in the DC metro area that currently carries it.

Low-end, high-end stemware

If you are like me, you are afraid to get really expensive stemware for the breakage factor. I'm worried not only about my guests, but about my klutziness while cleaning them and letting them dry. Most of my stemware is Spiegelau, Riedel's main competitor, which still offers the large bowls and thin rims I love, but at a bit lower price tag. (Of course, I have still broken a glass or two while cleaning them, which always breaks my heart...)

However, last year my husband got me a set of Vivant Champagne flutes from Target's Riedel line, and I was sold as soon as I opened the box. They fit my criteria of a thinly rimmed glass (which always makes the wine tastes better, for some reason...), and the shape is really pretty and elegant. At $40 for a set of four, the price is right, too.

So if you are in the market for decent stemware that doesn't break the bank, or need a last minute gift, check out the Riedel collections at Target. They carry different sized wine glasses, as well as beer glasses and a decanter. They all come packaged in sleek boxes, and make a wonderful Christmas gift for any wine lover (or for yourself...)

You can see the collection here.

Ahhhh...Bourgogne

Slate's recently posting about Burgundy's Trois Glorieuses wine event--three huge events for wine lovers--evokes very fond memories for me of my time in Burgundy during a French vacation several years ago....

http://www.slate.com/id/2155249/?GT1=8900

Expensive bubblies for New Year's Eve

Looking for a high-end bottle of Champagne for your New Year's Eve party? Forbes Magazine talks about some of the most expensive offerings here.

Of course, if you have a Champagne palate but a beer budget, there are bottles of the real stuff that do cost a lot less (the following bottles all sell for about $35 a pop, no pun intended):

* Taittinger Brut Champagne NV is elegant and rich.
* Veuve Clicquot's Yellow Label Brut Champagne NV is full-bodied and yeasty.
* Duval-Leroy Brut Champagne NV is a Wine Spectator Best Buy, rating 93 points out of 100, and is also full-bodied, with bread and lemon notes.

If you are having a party on New Year's Eve (large or small), what you may want to do is get enough of the good stuff for the actual toast at midnight (and/or for dinner, if you are hosting a dinner party), and then supplement with less expensive CA sparkling wine or Spanish Cava.

Here's to toasting 2007 in style, whatever your budget!

New Cal-Italia winemaker

I just got an email about a new winemaker in CA specializing in Italian varietals. Apparently, the winery is catering to younger, 20-something wine drinkers.

I haven't tried the wines yet, but I hope to soon. I'm especially a big fan of Barbera, and the company also has a Pinot Grigio, Sangiovese and Zinfandel.

http://www.ivantamas.com/index.html

I'm dreaming of a white Christmas

If you are a fan of white chocolate (which, I know, technically isn't chocolate, but for lack of a better name, that's what they call it...), you may wonder what kind of wine to drink with it.

Last night, I did a wine and chocolate tasting for a client, in which I paired 4 chocolates with 4 different wines. My choice for Lindt's white chocolate truffles was a Moscato d'Asti from Villa Lanata. Moscato is made in the Piemonte region of Italy (northwest part of the country), from the Moscato/Muscat grape. It's fermented in a variation of the tank method, and the resulting wine is very grapey, semi-sweet, and frizzante (semi-sparkling). It's also low in alcohol--this particular wine was 5.5% abv.

The residual sugar in the wine paired nicely with the super sweet white chocolate, while the bubbles and acidity cleansed the palate of some of the candy's richness. This pairing even converted those who don't favor white chocolate, and/or sweet wines.

Villa Lanata is available at area Total Wine shops.

Spain's answer to "What do I drink with sushi?"

When asked by friends and clients what wine to enjoy with sushi, I often steer them towards a sparkling wine such as Prosecco or Cava. Often underrated as a "food wine," sparkling wine's acidity pairs well with food and cleanses the palate. If they are looking for a still wine, then I suggest a New World sauvignon blanc, or a Spanish Albarinho--both are light, crisp choices that typically don't see oak.

Spanish winemaker Freixenet has just released another option for sushi--a white wine called Oroya. Oroya is a blend of Airen (the most widely planted white grape in the world, incidentally,) Macabeo and Alexandria Muscat. I have not read a review of the wine, but Maccabeo and Airen are relatively neutral grapes. The Alexandria Muscat will give some floral and "grapy" notes, so the wine in general is most likely a pretty light white.

Freixenet plans to create a rose wine for sushi next, as well as a totally different Oroya in Argentina with Torrontes and Pinot Noir. That could be interesting...

New wine option for a picnic or BYO concert

Australian wine company Hardy's has released a single-serve 187 mL bottle that comes with a plastic wineglass attached to the cap. The company is hoping to attract wine drinkers who go to outdoor sporting events, etc. where you can bring your own wine.

Hardy's plans on marketing it in the UK next year--not sure when or if it will hit the United States. But, along with all of the other current wine in a box options, and the Tetra Pak (which I commented on a few months ago--kind of like a large "juice box" of wine), picnickers and others who enjoy drinking wine in the great outdoors now have lots of easy options that don't require a corkscrew or glassware.

Bordeaux wine tasting at the French Embassy

Last night I attended a wine tasting of Bordeaux and Champagne Grands Crus at the French Embassy. It was sponsored by the Embassy and the French National Center for Scientific Research (CNRS), and Dr. Denis Dubourdieu from the Institute of Wine and Vine Studies at the University of Bordeaux led us through the tasting of these phenomenal, prestigious wines. Here are my reviews:

Chateau Haut-Bailly 2001 (First Classed Growth, Graves, Pessac-Leognan): This wine had an intense purple/ruby color, and aromas of black currants and some wood--though it was still pretty fresh for a 2001. On the palate there was some earthiness, along with subtle fruit (the fruit was more apparent on the aroma than on the palate.) The wine exhibited easy tannins, which were velvety on the attack and silky on the finish.

Chateau Margaux 1995 (Premier Grand Cru Classe, Margaux): Since this wine was a bit older, there was some color variation on the rim, but it was still a really pretty ruby color. The aroma was less fruity than the Haut-Bailly, with scents of truffles, woods and "day old ashes" (in the words of Dr. Dubourdieu). The flavor was classic Bordeaux, with grippy tannins and a long finish. This wine still has a lot of good years left in it--the tannins will continue to mellow.

Chateau Cheval Blanc 1998 (Premier Grand Cru Classe A, Saint-Emilion): This wine had an intense, opaque color, and the aroma of smoke and wild strawberries (most likely from the large amount of cabernet franc in the blend...). There were berries at the beginning, then the fruit died off a bit. The wine had good acidity, as well as finesse. This was my second favorite red of the evening.

Petrus 2001 (Pomerol): Wow, wow, wow. The wine's color was deep ruby, and on the nose were intense blackberries, black cherries and plums. This wine was VERY fruit forward for an Old World red, and very powerful, with a long finish. It reminded me a bit (dare I say it?) of a Napa Valley or Australian merlot. This was my favorite red of the evening...then I found out it costs about $900 a bottle (if you can get your hands on one...) Well, if someone else is buying I'd drink it any night of the week.

Chateau d'Yquem 2001 (First Great Growth Sauternes): What can you say about a wine that both Wine Spectator and Robert Parker rate as a 100 pointer? The beautiful, intense gold color gives way to an attractive, honey aroma. On the palate the honey continues, balanced by good acidity. Even though this wine spent THREE years in barrel, there is absolutely no taste of wood...or of the botrytis, for that matter. Perfection in a bottle.

Louis-Roederer Cristal 1999 (Prestige Cuvee Champagne): What better way to end the evening than with some fine Champagne? This was a delight to enjoy with the passed hors d'oeuvres at the end of the tasting (shrimp wrapped in bacon, mini crab cakes, smoked salmon). With a light yellow straw color, a tinge of yeast and bread on the nose, and a delicate, medium-bodied palate, the 1999 Cristal is simply delicious. (I do have to admit, though, that I prefer good old Veuve Clicquot Yellow Label at $35 a bottle...good thing, because it's much more in my price range.)

It was an amazing evening at the French Embassy, with fantastic wines and an educational lecture. Vive la France! Vive les vins de Bordeaux!

Wine with Indian cuisine

Rupen Rao offers Indian cooking classes in the DC area, as well as a wealth of Indian recipes on his website. (I met him at the recent Metropolitan Cooking and Entertaining show in DC.) Indian food is one of my favorites, and pairing wine with it can be a bit challenging, as there are a lot of competing spices and seasonings to contend with. Here are some suggestions and guidelines when selecting wines for Indian cuisine. Check Rupen's website in the near future for some wine pairing advice from me:

Gewürztraminer: Since “gewürztraminer” literally means “spicy grape” in German, this wine can pair perfectly with the spices and seasonings in Indian cuisine, especially ginger and cardamom. And since many bottles have a bit of residual sugar, gewürztraminer will tame the heat in curries and other spicy dishes.

Riesling: With aromas and flavors of crisp apple and peach, good acidity, and often a hint of sweetness, riesling is a match made in heaven for Indian cuisine. Try a glass or a bottle the next time you have a curry dish made with fruit like peaches or apricots. And, as with gewürztraminer, the touch of sugar in the wine will counter the heat in chili peppers and other spices.

Sauvignon Blanc: Sauvignon blanc’s enticing flavors of lime, grapefruit, gooseberries and herbs make it a food-friendly choice for any cuisine, as the bracing acidity wakes up your taste buds and makes you want to go back for another bite of whatever you are eating. Try it with dishes that include tomatoes, lemons or limes, which will match the wine’s acidity. With coconut milk based curries and other dishes, sauvignon blanc will cut some of the richness and taste extremely refreshing.

Rosé: Not to be confused with white zinfandel, rosé wine is completely dry. It has some of the complexity and weight of a red wine (think red berries and spice), as well as the acidity of a lighter white. Rosés can hold their own next to a lot of Indian dishes, including those made with lamb.

Sparkling wine: Often underrated as a food wine, and saved for special occasions, Champagne and other sparkling wines can be enjoyed with many different kinds of food. The refreshing bubbles and palate-cleansing acidity would especially work with Indian dishes that have heavy sauces.

Pinot Noir: Crave a bottle of red wine with your Indian food? Pinot noir is a smart choice, as it offers lots of fruit (cherries, raspberries, cranberries,) but typically has silkier, smoother tannins than more full-bodied red wines such as cabernet sauvignon or merlot, so it won’t dry out your mouth or fuel the fire of a spicy dish you are enjoying. If you are serving a variety of Indian dishes at your next dinner party (or if you are out at a restaurant and everyone is ordering something different on the menu,) pinot noir is a great selection. It can pair with everything from tandoori chicken, to fish curry, to palak paneer.

Must have wine book for your Christmas list

Jancis Robinson has recently updated her must-have tome on all things wine-related, The Oxford Companion to Wine, which is now in its 3rd edition.

Chock full of information--it's all in there, from wine growing regions and grape varietals, to wine making terms and power players. Amazon is offering it at the reduced price of $40.95, which is a steal for everything included in the book. There are more than 300 new entries, and three quarters of the original entries have been updated. Entries on brandy and distilled wines have been removed, leaving more room for "regular" wine entries.

If you are looking for something to add to your own Christmas list, or need a gift for a wine lover, this addition to any wine library is a stellar choice.